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Lucky Time Piece (submitted as Primate Highway)
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3 from 26
votes
Routes in I. Watch Crystal
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Apes of Wrath S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Black Arete, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Captain Chaos T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Captain Hamburger Pockets!!! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Crime & Punishment S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Doctor Doolittle S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Dogs of Doom T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Double Exposure S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Double Exposure Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Durangutan T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Evolution S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Extra Cool T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hidden Gem S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Imp's Arete, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Jailhouse Monkey (on dope) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Jungle Book S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Jungle Monkey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Kong Route, The T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Left Picto T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lucky Time Piece (submitted as Primate Highway) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Mister Man T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Off the Rack Mammal T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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One "Bit" Wonder T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Picto Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Power Glide S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Push-Me-Pull-You T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Right Picto T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Simians to the Sun T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Skyhawk Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Teen Town T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X |
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Watch Crystal Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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White Pages T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Yellow Pages T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | David Kozak and Steve Kolarik, 1985 |
| Page Views: | 2,393 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Grant Bryans on May 3, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
Start the same as Simians to the Sun, but about halfway up bust right at the roof and then go up to the belay of Simians. This has been said to be a little runout.
Per David Kozak: this route was originally climbed without fixed gear in 1985, two years prior to Bruce Lella bolting the route. On the day of the ascent, I originally attempted to climb this line on lead but chickened out and moved further right and up to a spot where I tried to place a bolt. I broke the bit (only one I had) and then tied it off and moved left along a rail to the Simian's hanging belay. Steve Kolarik and I called this Teen Town and rated it 10- X. We then rapped, and I cleaned and inspected the route (Primate Highway/Lucky Time Piece) and then lead it ground up without pre-placed gear. Due to its difficulty and dangerous nature, I rated the route an 11+ X.
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