Ropes and the MegaJul

I am looking at getting a new rope and want something a little thinner than my 10.2 mm. Specifically, I am looking at the Sterling Velocity 9.8, and the Mammut Eternity 9.8. I've already done my research on these two ropes, so I'm not looking for opinions on A vs. B, just looking for an answer to a specific question.

For sport, I use a MegaJul and plan to continue using it. I have noticed while using a friend's Edelrid Boa 9.8, that it slides ever so slightly through the device while the climber hangs (if there is zero tension on the brake strand).

My question is: does anyone use the MegaJul with the Mammut Eternity 9.8, or the Sterling Velocity 9.8? If so, with what carabiner, and how do you find the combination to handle for paying out slack. For releasing? Does it completely jam the rope when there is slack in the brake strand, or will the rope slide through slowly without a small braking force applied?

Thanks!

Not directly answering your question, but I've been playing with the MegaJul and Jul2. Personally, I think ropes over 10mm are kinda big for the Mega, so the sweet spot being 9-10mm. Sub-9 is obviously the territory of the third device in the series.

I'm using a slightly fuzzy 9.8ish rope (Monster) with the Mega and a BD Gridlock (not that I recommend this biner). No slippage, relatively easy to feed slack. Maybe you tested it on a new rope which has a slippery sheath?

Hiro wrote:Not directly answering your question, but I've been playing with the MegaJul and Jul2. Personally, I think ropes over 10mm are kinda big for the Mega, so the sweet spot being 9-10mm. Sub-9 is obviously the territory of the third device in the series. I'm using a slightly fuzzy 9.8ish rope (Monster) with the Mega and a BD Gridlock (not that I recommend this biner). No slippage, relatively easy to feed slack. Maybe you tested it on a new rope which has a slippery sheath?

I agree. My 10.2 doesn't cause me any problems, but it could be smoother. Part the the reason I am looking at slightly smaller.

You make a good point - the Boa was relatively new.

I use a Mammut Infinity 9.5 with no problems feeding or holding a hang-dogging climber.

FWIW, Mammut's 9.8 is going to be way thicker than other manufacturers' 9.8s. The reason is they measure their ropes under tension. In my experience, Infinity which is 9.5 is closer equivalent to Sterling's Velocity 9.8.

doligo wrote:FWIW, Mammut's 9.8 is going to be way thicker than other manufacturers' 9.8s. The reason is they measure their ropes under tension. In my experience, Infinity which is 9.5 is closer equivalent to Sterling's Velocity 9.8.

Interesting. Seems like there was a change in Mammut's Eternity at some point too: Relevant Post
They went from 61 g/m to 64 g/m but I can't find any background on why.

So here's a radical thought - follow the manufacturer's directions and don't take your brake hand off the rope.

Problem solved.

Gunkiemike wrote:So here's a radical thought - follow the manufacturer's directions and don't take your brake hand off the rope. Problem solved.

If you read carefully you'll see that I don't mention anything as a problem and that I don't mention taking a hand off the brake strand. My hope was to avoid this response.

I run a Sterling 9.8 with my megajul with no issues. great rope.

Personally I found that MegaJul works with thinner (sub 9.5mm) rope smooth. With thick ropes (above 9.8mm or so) it is not smooth. And for 10.2+ it is just a pain to feed rope, to unlock it, and especially to rappel.

Also I found that it should be used with Edelrid HMS Strike binner. Other binners work not that well (lock to easy or don't lock at all).

All the above is valid when using Jul2.

The best rope diameter range for MegaJul is something in between 8mm and 9.2mm.

The brake assist performance with these types of devices depends greatly on the carabiner used. I notice no slip at all on a wide variety of rope diameters with the recommended HMS Strike FG carabiner or with the i-beam petzl attache. With most other cabiners I've tried with the mega jul, there is some slow creeping slippage while holding a hanging climber.

pokey wrote:The brake assist performance with these types of devices depends greatly on the carabiner used. I notice no slip at all on a wide variety of rope diameters with the recommended HMS Strike FG carabiner or with the i-beam petzl attache. With most other cabiners I've tried with the mega jul, there is some slow creeping slippage while holding a hanging climber.

+1...I noticed this too. I've used a Petzl Attache 3D and a Black Diamond Gridlock biner and they work well. Round biners like the old Petzl Attache don't work as well.

I had a Magnetron that worked fine on 9.8's but would creep with my 9.4. I switched to the steel HMS Bruce, and it's been great.

MDoody wrote: If you read carefully you'll see that I don't mention anything as a problem and that I don't mention taking a hand off the brake strand. My hope was to avoid this response.

One could argue that the purpose of the brake hand on the rope is to apply the needed tension. IMO you're identifying a concern that needn't exist.

A lot of useful information here. Thanks guys.

Gunkiemike wrote: One could argue that the purpose of the brake hand on the rope is to apply the needed tension.

I agree. However, the needed tension varies from device to device, and clearly even within device/rope/biner combinations. There are reasons I am asking for others' experience with required tension, but none of those reasons include any desire to remove a hand from the brake end of the rope.

There was never any argument as to whether the brake hand needs to stay on the rope at all times in case the needed tension rapidly changes.
Clearly it does.

In my experience the mega juls performance is based more on rope stiffness than rope diameter. The stiffer the rope, the shittier is feeds both when lead belaying and top belaying. I have a 10.2 that feeds awesome in both belaying setups (although not as well as my supple 9.4). Similarly, old flat ropes tend to be pretty sticky. Seems like they won't allow the device to "unlock."

I use the HMS strike slider fg biner.

MDoody wrote: There was never any argument as to whether the brake hand needs to stay on the rope at all times in case the needed tension rapidly changes. Clearly it does.

Not disagreeing this statement but is your video supposed to be someone using a MegaJul? It sure doesn't look like it when I zoom in.

No, just a terrible belay.

Def get the right biner for the megajul, makes a good amount of difference.

The only slippage I have seen with my mega jul was on a very new rope with a slippery sheath. It was an incredibly small and insignificant amount of slippage though. I have used it on 10mm fuzzy ropes, 9.8, and 9.5, all worked fine but the 9.5 petzl was the best