Black Velvet Wall, Trials and Tribulations

And the point of this thread is?....

All hail Dow Williams the best 5.10 climber in the world.

Dow Williams wrote:Was that you on Ixtlan yesterday by the way? That is my favorite off-width in Red Rock...Joanne has a great story about the FA with Spider Man Dan.

Dow, we were cragging in that area yesterday - Tri sands, Matzoland...our friends were on Ixtlan and we had climbed it on Friday. That OW kicks my butt! And p1 is pretty hard too. Heading back tomorrow...never get tired of the routes there. Would love to hear the story sometime!

Anyway, I totally agree with what you are saying about the music. I have come to expect it at sport crags...but not on multi-pitch trad routes. It's unfortunate.

"wow, what a cool speaker! mind if I take a look?'

oops.

sorry ."

[EDIT] I realized I shouldn't be contributing to this thread.

Dow Williams wrote: To the father and son climbing Gobbler direct to DOWT. I feel something must have happened with your son to not want to continue. Thus you rapped the chimney. When you climbed that chimney, you noticed no less than 3 cut/stuck ropes yesterday, one of them brand new. Sir, that is why we do not rap that chimney. Once your son made that slab move to atop p4, the traverse to the left to POD rap line would have been easy peasy in comparison and well bolted. No matter the fear, being tired, whatever, I would think rapping POD vs losing your rope in the chimney and fighting to retrieve it for 2 hours (you were still fighting to get it out when we left) would have surly made more sense. That chimney must consume 20-30 ropes or partial rope per year. If it was a quiet cold winter day on the wall, a move like that could have been more serious no doubt.

For the record, there seemed to be too many people above us and still coming up POD for us to continue up DOWT and merge with you all. That was the main reason we bailed as the traverse over to POD would NOT have been an issue for either of us.

And furthermore for the record, it was a learning experience for my son on how not to panic, climbed back up the pitch, actually get the rope out without yanking on it from below and down lead a pitch. It was accomplished in less than 30 minutes at tops.

I agree with you that it was an obvious rope eater that I should have been avoided but going down and risking a stuck rope seemed like the right choice.

After getting down, we did go and do Frogland and got back to our packs without needing headlamps, which we had with us. All in all, a 10 pitch day for a father and son was a pretty good day, especially considering the son is just getting into trad/multi-pitch and our first day at Red Rocks.

Sorry for causing you so much distress.

I'm sure I know exactly who was on that wall bumping music from San Fran. That's a great group of people and solid leaders and skills, that I can vouch for personally.

First on the music. What the fuck ever man, you said you liked it. If it bothered you that much you would have said something.

Second, explain to me the circumstances in which you were drug up your first multipitch. If they were there first (I'm assuming since you passed them) your the dick and they have the right of way. If not, just stay out of others business we are all out there to enjoy ourselves. Either way that's on you.

And lastly, what kind of and ass calls out strangers on the Internet?

Or is this one of those reverse sprays where you just want to let everyone know the rock master was multipitchin in Red Rocks...?

I agree with the consensus here on the music: it doesn't matter how good the climbers are or what selection of music they play - blasting music in a wilderness climbing area is just as much disrespect to the spirit of the area and other climbers as is defecating at the base of a climb. Please leave the speakers in the car and let others climb in peace.

I seriously can't wait until the next time I get to crag-and-bash. This thread is bearing fruit!

Drama drama drama! We surely had our share. I tell you what, I was in all of those scenarios on both sides, the scolder, the scoldee, the noob being dragged, the leader dragging noobs, the stuck rope party, the embarrassed bail party, the bumping music party(I don't ever hate the tunes unless it's the Beasty Boys, I hate those punks for some reason). All I can say is stop whining on the internet and learn to express yourself to people in real life so you don't have all the emotions cooped up waiting to spill on the internet....where people may find it entertaining at best. Man up and be grateful you got to climb that day, drama and all.

Hey Dow,

Really psyched on a great day out in the Canyons. Beautiful weather and sending temps!

I saw you out there guiding and was wondering who you guide for? I enjoy reading your incredibly humble beta on SP (and appreciate how you link us to it frequently) and given how INCREDIBLY solid you looked up there I think I could learn a lot of I hired you. I was hoping to do a classic Urioste route and learn a bit about rope management (especially how to use double ropes in conjunction with long runners on pro).

Thanks bro!

Andre

Nutcrafffffft!!!

Por favor, no te olvidas que usar los "double ropes" por ustedes clusters, culeros!

Where's Dow at lately? I've been missing that arrogant bastard. Who combines self congratulatory tone with unadulterated, ovum smashing testosterone quite like he does? Nobody fucking ever, that's who.

My own weak impression of the Dowager Prince:

Here I was being a bad ass by my own report, when I saw these people having an average climbing day. I'd like to point out as arrogantly as possible exactly how much better I am than them.

Here I was, humping a fifty pound pig to the base of the Eagle Wall. An actual pig, mind you. Oink oink? It was for the post-climb feast I would cook for the on the DL guided linkup of Eagle Dance and Lev 29 I was doing for some clients. This was my second lap there in two hours, but that slow pace was only because I consider this a rest day. As I was crushing the pig's windpipe with one hand, I saw a slow party of a dad and his teenage son approaching. "You ladies are late," I rasped out at those two shaking leaves. Fucking clients, I thought to myself.

"Fucking clients" I said out loud to their trembling faces, because that's just the kind of guy I am. Dow Williams. Straight shooter. So-called pirate guide. Well, I'll be your matey. For a price.

Route Beta: Hump a damn pig to a natural bbq pit I alone found on the Eagle Wall descent. Useful for long days of double rope technique siege wall linkups that will require the rejuvenating powers of carnitas. Approach time: 30 minutes for non-lilly livers. Tell your teenage boy, I will bite his pasty face next time if I see that fear on the wall again.

If you're man enough and your nuts have finally dropped, you can view more important route beta I've bequeathed at this antiquated website with minimal actual climbing content outside of my own you're welcome

^^^

Way to keep it classy, Colonel.

FrankPS wrote:^^^ Way to keep it classy, Colonel.

Clearly, you are just jealous of his lifestyle.

LOL!