15/16 Ice Conditions

It is that time of the year again!

Parker Falls is in and was climbed last weekend. Hike in took 5 hours from the Parker Lake TH with snow covered scree/talus and some post holing through the snow drifts. 2:45 min back down to the TH. The ice is there if your willing to go get it.

Walked into Eagle Creek Canyon today. No ice on the south side of the canyon. Didnt walk all the way to Sunny Falls but from a distance it looked as if there was a good line. Eagle lake was not frozen over and there was about 4"-6" of snow. Made for a pretty bad walk over the talus. I would wait for another snow fall.

Cascade Falls looked good to go from HWY 89.

No ice at Lovers Leap. Maybe after a better freeze thaw cycle. There's definitely enough snow up there.

Good news is there's a packed snowshoe trail up to Coldstream ice (thanks mostly to Josh). Bad news is the ice looked pretty anemic and non leadable. So we just took our tools for a long walk.

Does anyone have info on Lundy Canyon Ice. It's conditions, he approach, is the approach ski-able? Thanks

I will be creating a new thread on this topic as well, but I have read reports the ice is in up at Lee Vining. Would anyone be interested in climbing with me this weekend up there? Feel free to reach out below

Jesse
607 643 6972
jessetoedtman@gmail.com

ice at eagle lake was thin but in two days ago

Cascade had a pretty good section of open water down the middle, but the edges were climbable. I don't think it would hold a screw, but as long as you don't bash your way up it will hold.

Good stuff!

Holy cow. Where's that? Looks like Silver Strand but seems too early for it to be that formed up.

That pic of Cascade is about what Horsetail falls looked like today. The top has given way and opened up and the sides are delaminated and sketchy with a ton of water percolating through. It was almost 60 degrees when I left Lee Vining earlier.

Tatum falls and the North Gully are coming in and starting to look good though.

Chouinard falls is pretty good right now and can be led across the whole thing. The tree route on the right is dry and has some fun easy dry tooling up the cracks.

The main wall is leadable right up the middle. enjoy

Fat dad, that is not CA. :( The Nemesis far far north. A few notches more difficult than the Silver Strand, that's fer sure.

Went to the valley this weekend for some wall fun... Silver Strand looked to be in pretty decent shape Saturday morning. Anybody have a chance to go check it out for real? I'm sure the warm temps today and yesterday did nothing good for it.

Any beta on Cascade falls this year?

Ed Henicle wrote:Anyone beta on Cascade falls this year?

Cascade is good to go as of yesterday and things are
Coming in nicely with the October rains adding much
Needed moisture
Cold snap coming this upcoming week

Great News! We may be in for a good long season. I the conditions at Cascade are in I'd speculate they'll be in at Horsetail Falls/June Lake too. If anyone goes to HT, plz post the conditions.

yeah it's been feckin' cold up there. gotta be sum ice

This weekend in tahoe is going to be warm though :/

JUNE LAKE
Roadside is fat on the left and getting close on the right.

Horsetail is climbable via far left or far right flow, but sketchy with loads of water coming down. There is also WI3- gully well right of horsetail that's crux bulge is a couple cold days from going easily.

Tatum falls is as fat as it has been in recent years.

LEE VINING

Chouinards is thin as of three days ago (friend's report), but the walk is hateful.

Not heard any word about spiral staircase or cave man.

JoeCrawford wrote: but the walk is hateful.

I bet Parker Canyon is coming in being at 10,000'. Not sure if it would be buried in snow though. It's visible from the 395.