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Jon Hartmann
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Dec 4, 2015
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Ojai, CA
· Joined Feb 2009
· Points: 1,751
I'm going off to do The Prow on Washington Column in Yosemite right now and I'm trying to shave down weight on the ol' haul bag. I'm wondering if I could ditch the homemade belay seat I'm bringing. How many hanging belays or really uncomfortable belays are on the route? Also is this a heavy rack? 2 sets of C4 cams from .5-3, also one #4, 2 sets of master cams from 00- 4, (also 2 extra blues and 2 extra purples), 2 sets of mastercam offsets from 00-4, 1 set nuts, 1 set black diamond peenuts, and a set and a half of dmm brass offsets. 2 cam hooks, a pecker, a skyhook, and 5 aluminum heads. Too much?
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Jon Hartmann
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Dec 4, 2015
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Ojai, CA
· Joined Feb 2009
· Points: 1,751
Anyone know? I'm like 3 hours from Yosemite right now and will be out of service... Any info would be awesome.
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Pat Cunnane
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Dec 4, 2015
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South Lake Tahoe, CA
· Joined Feb 2012
· Points: 15
That's basically the same rack I had when I did it, but offset aliens instead of offset mastercams. I think you're good. The belay seat was nice to have, I vote to bring it. There;s a few hanging belays without good stances.
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Flex
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Dec 4, 2015
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Flagstaff, AZ
· Joined Apr 2007
· Points: 1,025
I climbed the route almost 15 years ago so my memory may not be the best. But if its all you can get... I remember using the belay seat for most belays above anchorage ledge until you get near the top. That rack seems heavy. I doubt you would need to bring 4 sets in those small sizes. A #4 camalot is nice for the last pitch squeeze chimney. That's a lot of nuts too. I only remember 1 hook move. EDIT: Looks like more recent beta arrived for you. Have fun!
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Jon Hartmann
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Dec 4, 2015
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Ojai, CA
· Joined Feb 2009
· Points: 1,751
Thank you mucho. I'm not caring about the weight for hauling, more for the approach and walk off. I think my bag weighs about 100lbs with all my gear and water. Yesh
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Jon Hartmann
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Dec 4, 2015
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Ojai, CA
· Joined Feb 2009
· Points: 1,751
Also Flex, thank you, I am brining 1 #4. I forgot to mention it in the description.
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JohnnyG
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Dec 4, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Nov 2009
· Points: 10
+ 1 for belay seat let us know how it goes
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Jon Hartmann
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Dec 4, 2015
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Ojai, CA
· Joined Feb 2009
· Points: 1,751
Mike. You're awesome. We had just decided to do it in a day. We're going to have the follower wear a pack with our sleeping and I'll have the sleeping pads and water. We'll sleep at the top tomorrow night and walk off in the morning. I wonder how many hours it will actually take.
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