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Routes in The Main Wall
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[Redacted] T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Adipose T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Aerie Interlude T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Alchemy T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bushwhacker T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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California Weakender T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Chinese Chicken T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Community Pillars T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Compleat Angler, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Dame El Oro T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Diminishing Returns T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Double Trouble T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Double Trouble Extension T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Electric Chair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fall Line T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Fingerlings T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Fire and Sage T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Fissuremen T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Flying with Goldens T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Full Clip T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Fun Soup T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gateway T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Geologic Time T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Gold Rush T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Guillotine, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hip to Toe T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Holding the Line T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a R |
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Horse With No Name T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Ideal Schedule, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Immortal Illusions T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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JR Token T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Landing a Monster T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Long March, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Lou Dog T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Main Stream T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Martian Chronicles, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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May Fly, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Midas Touch T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Monster T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mr. Squiggles T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Muffin Top T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Out of the Question T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Out Ridin' Fences T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Pan Handlin' T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pumphouse Park T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Purple Pinky Eater T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Question Air Box, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Redd Alert T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Redside T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Reservation Blues T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Rightway T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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River Wide, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rocinante T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Shadow Casting T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
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Shushaynsh T,TR 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13 |
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Slim Pickens T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Space Between, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Space Mission T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Steelhead T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Straightway T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Suzuki T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Tawtnuk Tiicham (Medicine Land) T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Time Bomb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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True Grit T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Two Step Left T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Two Step Right T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Unknown 1 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown 2 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown 3 AKA: Wally's Warm Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown 4 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Wengerbanger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Winter Sustenance T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Wondertwins T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Mikey Schaefer |
| Page Views: | 3,429 total · 34/month |
| Shared By: | Mikey Schaefer on Nov 30, 2015 |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure 2020 UPDATE/Private Land Boundaries
Details
2020 Seasonal Raptor Closure Update: Trout Creek is open to climbing on May 15, 2020. The Golden Eagles have nested on the Warm Springs side of the formation.
SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…
ADJACENT PRIVATE LAND
Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. However the entirety of the Main Wall is public with a solid buffer of space before the boundary, so you are allowed to access up above that wall. Please be aware of the rest of the private land above the cliff though. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.
SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…
ADJACENT PRIVATE LAND
Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. However the entirety of the Main Wall is public with a solid buffer of space before the boundary, so you are allowed to access up above that wall. Please be aware of the rest of the private land above the cliff though. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.
Description
This is the open corner directly left of Gold Rush and is easy to TR off of the GR anchors with a finger sized directional.
Starts with some bouldery stems and one hard crank that leads to a no hands stem rest. The middle part of the route is a mix of laybacking and tenuous stems with one harder move thrown in. There is small horizontal break at two-thirds height with a shitty stem rest. Probably 13- to this point. Above the break is probably a V6 or harder boulder problem that involves some really engaging body sequences that start as a layback, then to a stem, then to a really slippery arete move followed by a thank-god jug on the arete. Easier climbing leads to the top and the Gold Rush anchors.
Your toes and calf muscles better be in good shape for this one. They will surely get pumped up there.
A bit of FA history. I've heard the line had been tr'd by a few different people over the years due to its proximity to Gold Rush but no serious attempts besides Tommy Caldwell. Rumor has it that he tried it maybe 6 times over a couple days but never came away with the redpoint. I started attempting it my 2nd day climbing at Trout and quickly became obsessed with it. I spent two and a half sporadic years working on it and probably a total of 40 or so tr and lead burns. Finally sent it on cold (high of 37°F) November day.
And as far as the rating goes, I found it pretty hard to rate. Somedays it would feel impossible for me but when I finally redpointed it, it didn't feel too bad. Others that TR'd it felt the 13+ rating was warranted but I thought maybe more like mid 5.13. I've been told I am a sandbagger and am trying to change that so I went with the possibly inflated grade this time to make everyone happy.
The name of the route, Shúshaynsh, is the local Native American word for a Steelhead trout. It is pronounced shoe-shines-shh Here is a link to it being pronounced depts.washington.edu/sahapt…
Starts with some bouldery stems and one hard crank that leads to a no hands stem rest. The middle part of the route is a mix of laybacking and tenuous stems with one harder move thrown in. There is small horizontal break at two-thirds height with a shitty stem rest. Probably 13- to this point. Above the break is probably a V6 or harder boulder problem that involves some really engaging body sequences that start as a layback, then to a stem, then to a really slippery arete move followed by a thank-god jug on the arete. Easier climbing leads to the top and the Gold Rush anchors.
Your toes and calf muscles better be in good shape for this one. They will surely get pumped up there.
A bit of FA history. I've heard the line had been tr'd by a few different people over the years due to its proximity to Gold Rush but no serious attempts besides Tommy Caldwell. Rumor has it that he tried it maybe 6 times over a couple days but never came away with the redpoint. I started attempting it my 2nd day climbing at Trout and quickly became obsessed with it. I spent two and a half sporadic years working on it and probably a total of 40 or so tr and lead burns. Finally sent it on cold (high of 37°F) November day.
And as far as the rating goes, I found it pretty hard to rate. Somedays it would feel impossible for me but when I finally redpointed it, it didn't feel too bad. Others that TR'd it felt the 13+ rating was warranted but I thought maybe more like mid 5.13. I've been told I am a sandbagger and am trying to change that so I went with the possibly inflated grade this time to make everyone happy.
The name of the route, Shúshaynsh, is the local Native American word for a Steelhead trout. It is pronounced shoe-shines-shh Here is a link to it being pronounced depts.washington.edu/sahapt…
Protection
3x Purple C3
5x Green C3
3x Red C3
3x Yellow C3
2,3,4 BD stopper
The first two pieces (Red C3 and #4 stopper) were pre-placed as well as the #2 and #3 stopper that can be clipped from the arete jug.
I gave the route pg-13 as it is just a bit spicey going for the arete jug (the crux). My feet were about 6 or 7 ft above the final purple C3 at this point.
See beta photo for a pic of the rack and the order it went in.
5x Green C3
3x Red C3
3x Yellow C3
2,3,4 BD stopper
The first two pieces (Red C3 and #4 stopper) were pre-placed as well as the #2 and #3 stopper that can be clipped from the arete jug.
I gave the route pg-13 as it is just a bit spicey going for the arete jug (the crux). My feet were about 6 or 7 ft above the final purple C3 at this point.
See beta photo for a pic of the rack and the order it went in.
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