Jim Dandy conditions

Does Jim Dandy take long to dry out after a good rain? What are the winter conditions like?

P3 can be a bit wet based on previous experience (climbing during/after rain), but most of it dries relatively quickly and the wet sections tend to be the 4th class bits. Might want to bring some gear to place on the P3 traverse so that you can avoid wet bits near bolts. If you are continuing on to My Route, P5/6 can have very wet sections following rain.

Awesome! Thanks for the info. What are the decent options if you decided not to continue My Route?

Awesome! Thanks for the info. What are the decent options if you decided not to continue My Route?

From the P3 anchors of Jim Dandy, you can do two double rope rappels to the ground. I think the first rap puts you at the top of Helmet Buttress (the Slippin into Darkness anchors?). And if I remember correctly, Selected Climbs says you can walk off the right side of lunch ledge, but I've never done this.

Drew Hayes wrote:Selected Climbs says you can walk off the right side of lunch ledge

Yep, I've done it. There was a fixed line there that could be used as a handline or you could rappel on it. It's a good option to have in case you can't finish on My Route.

Jon Powell wrote:Awesome! Thanks for the info. What are the decent options if you decided not to continue My Route?

you can also climb a single pitch of ~5.8 to the next ledge (well protected), and then walk left ~100 yards to the trail to the top.

tks wrote: you can also climb a single pitch of ~5.8 to the next ledge (well protected), and then walk left ~100 yards to the trail to the top.

This takes you to Lightning Ledge (via the third pitch of the Cave Route). Depending on how you go this walk off can be fairly exposed in places. Not sure I would recommend it in wet conditions.

The walk off from Lunch Ledge is at the north end of the ledge and should be easy, though probably muddy with all the rain we're having now.

At least you won't have to deal with any traffic this time of year. I'll never forget the mob of inexperienced spring breakers trying to send this at sunset sans head lamps....

I've climbed JD a few times when wet. It holds up ok. Some of the bottom holds on the first pitch can get a little slimey. I belayed a friend who fell twice after it had just finished raining. It was just after the first bolt and he has lead that pitch several times previously. P3 is so low angle it really isn't a big deal when wet.

Adam Fleming wrote: Yep, I've done it. There was a fixed line there that could be used as a handline or you could rappel on it. It's a good option to have in case you can't finish on My Route.

Yeah the walk down is super easy and the best option if not climbing on from the lunch ledge. To get there from the anchors on jim dandy just follow the path to the climbers right about 10 ft, take the path down/around or crab walk down the short section of exposed rock. Continue on the trail, slightly to the right. There will be a steep path down a gulley on the left, that is the walk off. We usually have coiled the rope at the point and just butt slide down. You end up about 100 yrds to the climbers right of the cave route. Just follow the wall down and around, thread the key hole and you'll be at the bottom of cave route. You can climb the first two pitches of cave route and be back at the lunch ledge or follow the trail back to the bottom of jim dandy.