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2015-16 Colorado Ice Conditions

garrettem · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 575

Here's a pic of the cut hangers at the top of the second pitch. Didn't get a photo of the first pitch bolts. Third pitch bolts and chain are fine and the walk off rap bolts are ok as well.

Chopped bolts on second pitch of Second Gully.

Forthright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 110
Jon H wrote:Not many consistent ice areas within 1 hr of Boulder any time of year, especially now early season. Moffat Tunnel is basically 1 hr away - some short scrappy lines and some bolted mixed. Hidden Falls is about 1:15 away, but it's probably still too thin. Estes/RMNP is 1 hr, but then tack on a 1-3 hr approach/avy concerns/possible need for skis or slowshoes. There can be some short flows in Boulder Canyon if you know where to look. Eldo will occasionally get some wild ice pitches but those are ephemeral, fleeting, and usually pretty scary.
Ok then what would be my best bet then?
Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
NorCalNomad wrote: Ok then what would be my best bet then?
Moffat or suck it up and head to Lincoln in Breck. Just weekends be prepared for nightmare traffic.
Dougald MacDonald · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2002 · Points: 842
NorCalNomad wrote: Ok then what would be my best bet then?
Pretty good chance one of the Flatirons slab routes will come in early this week. "Silk Road" on the First is the best bet.
Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118

Hiked up this afternoon to scope out the Flatirons. Checked out the base of the 1st and got pretty close (but not onto) the 3rd. The only ice I found at all was very thin (under 1") but it was mostly sugar snow over bone dry slabs. I hoped that today's bluebird skies, sunshine, and above-freezing temps would get some melt action, but everything was bone dry.

Hopefully the warmer day time temps over the next 48 hours will get a good melt-freeze cycle going but for now, I'd say the Flatirons are definitely out unless you are a particularly talented (and particularly brave) slab-with-crampons climber. And start before dawn.

EDIT: This was my post #1000. I spend way too much time here.

Nick Sweeney · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 969

I'm in Denver on business and will be free Thursday afternoon through Sunday. I lead WI3 M3 and my partner leads up to WI4.

Could any locals give me pointers on where to go for some quality ice climbing? I'm not opposed to a long walk or a moderate drive (ideally <5 hours from Denver), or even camping out for a few days (I'm free Thursday-Sunday). As far as climbing goes, I'm interested in anything from moderate mixed, ice crags, and maybe even alpine stuff. Multipitch is a plus but these will be my first ice pitches of the season and I'd really like to get a lot of volume.

I saw "Lincoln" mentioned above, that looks like a decent option but I'm sure it will be packed on the weekend.

Any advice would be appreciated!

Mike McNeil · · Spearfish, South Dakota · Joined Feb 2007 · Points: 1,555

Cody is a 7 hour drive. There won't be lines.

Eric Coomer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 5
Nick Sweeney wrote:...I'm not opposed to a long walk or a moderate drive (ideally <5 hours from Denver), or even camping out for a few days (I'm free Thursday-Sunday)....
https://mtnguide.net/resources/ouray-ice-conditions/

About 5.5-6 hours from Denver

There are climbs "in" up in Rocky Mountain National Park according to reports (All mixed up etc).
Robert Buswold · · Northglenn, CO · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 80

Any update on Hidden Falls? Thinking of heading out there tomorrow.

Kevin Gillest · · Winter Park CO · Joined Dec 2003 · Points: 3,372

Climbed "All Mixed Up" on Sunday Nov 29th with Carl Pluim, approx -10F leaving the traihead. Conditions were thinner than past years climbed, but climbable. Set both rock gear and numerous screws without issues. The approach was brutal, 3+ ft of unconsolidated powder, hopefully better now.

Start of P2.
Start of P2, right side variation

Top of P2, right side variation.
Top of P2, right side variation

Route from the base.
Route from Base

Ben Coryell · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 25

Has anyone been up to Long's lately, specifically Alexander's Chimney?

jselwyn · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 40

Silverton is doing pretty nicely. Stairway climbed well 10 days ago, Whorehouse was on the thinner side, but featured and fun. Both the left and right 3rd pitch are in. Highway tovHell looks really good. Gully 1&2 are getting done a lot. Other stuff up the valley looking sun hammered. South Mineral is good, but takes work.

MtnLife · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 45

Anyone know how the Moffat ice is looking and if the trail is skiable going up to Heart lake?

CanDillo · · The Great State -Colorado · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 280

I know Moffat Ice is in well. Can't speak to Heart Lake but "J Antin" may be able to tell you. PM him

WadeM · · Auburn, Ca · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 481

Moffet was capt hookin Tuesday night, when Antin and I were there.

Right pillar is fat (first time it has really come in)

Ice is good

Best snow coveraged was just above treeline

MtnLife · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 45

Thanks for the replies, only have time for a half day tomorrow and will probably head up there early to see how far the trail skis, if anyone wants to meet up for that or some ice around 10 let me know!

Steve Mannhard · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 0

I am looking to head into the RMNP for some ICE/alpine Climbs over the weekend of 12/11. Does anyone know the conditions of Martha's and/or thatchtop?

Martin Barnett · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 95

Sorry to ask again but has anybody been on the NE face of notch top this week. Hows the conditions, wind loading, etc?

CanDillo · · The Great State -Colorado · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 280
The Blueprint Part Dank · · FEMA Region VIII · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 460

After bailing on AMU then leaving Hidden Falls after leading the main flow once to preserve the climb for later in the year, we found ourselves at the "Main Flow" of the Castle Rock ice for some end of day ice Bouldering. Definitely not worth a trip, but, if you're driving past the area with ice gear in your car, it might be a nice diversion for a few minutes.

Castle rock ice.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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