Guide for Solar Slab between the 26th and 29th

Adam Nurmi wrote:But on a side note, how did this turn into an argument over approach times? and petty banter regarding assumptions of our qualifications? I feel like some folks are not observing Guideline #1

Have you never read any of the other threads on MP?

Austin Baird wrote: Bro - are you like a professional climber bro who splits his time between the desert and sick ice lines in Canada? Bro. For reals. This is my new favorite account ever.

I met Dow last March and he was super nice and a solid guy. I was hiking out from a long day on Rainbow Wall and met Dow in the Oak Creek parking lot. Our car was out on the highway and I was having terrible hip pain (just got a hip replacement BTW). Dow moved a bunch of gear and made room for us in his car and drove us out to the road and our vehicle. Very nice guy and his website, does in fact, have excellent information on Red Rock climbing.

Just a good word for a guy who really helped me out.

Adam Nurmi wrote:But on a side note, how did this turn into an argument over approach times? and petty banter regarding assumptions of our qualifications? I feel like some folks are not observing Guideline #1 Adam

Adam, don't feel that way. Josh Janes with Jackson Hole Mountain Guides is envious of my lifestyle and creates fake avatars, etc to troll me on mountain project. He obviously does not have the balls to state any of this in person. I told him to "grow the fuck up and pick up after his dog" once and it has been down hill for him ever since. He was not really directing that at you with his latest tirade. Nor was I obviously, as it was a fake account set up for trolling and it looks like MP found it already. Had nothing to do with you whatsoever. Austin Baird has no excuse except that he spends entirely too much time on the internet. Never heard of him and he seems to never have anything substantial or helpful to add. You will find a few of those on here, heavy on the keyboard, light on climbing. I believe everyone else has been quite polite to you on this thread. Hope you have a good trip. Ever need any route advice regarding Red Rock or the southwestern deserts in general, feel free to message me.

Thanks for the kind words Jeff, hope all is well.

Dow Williams wrote: Adam, don't feel that way. Josh Janes with Jackson Hole Mountain Guides is envious of my lifestyle and creates fake avatars, etc to troll me on mountain project. He obviously does not have the balls to state any of this in person. I told him to "grow the fuck up and pick up after his dog" once and it has been down hill for him ever since. He was not really directing that at you with his latest tirade. Nor was I obviously, as it was a fake account set up for trolling and it looks like MP found it already. Had nothing to do with you whatsoever. Austin Baird has no excuse except that he spends entirely too much time on the internet. Never heard of him and he seems to never have anything substantial or helpful to add. You will find a few of those on here, heavy on the keyboard, light on climbing. I believe everyone else has been quite polite to you on this thread. Hope you have a good trip. Ever need any route advice regarding Red Rock or the southwestern deserts in general, feel free to message me. Thanks for the kind words Jeff, hope all is well.

Looks like you have your choice of official and unofficial guides, young Adam...take your pick!

Actually Dow, you're misinformed. I thought the troll account "Wow Dilliams" was quite hilarious, but as a guide, a local Red Rocks climber, and an administrator on the Mountain Project, I do not set up fake accounts here. I would appreciate it if you don't spread false information and if I have something to say, I'll say it using my real name.

So here you have it: I do think you come across as an arrogant prick on the Mountain Project at times. I thought you were nice enough when I met you in person so I'm not sure why you have to act so holier-than-thou on the internet. But the facts are that you illegally guide in Red Rock and you misrepresent yourself as an "expert" and "professional athlete." I don't troll you and generally try to keep my mouth shut but when you make false accusations or insult me publicly I am inclined to speak up and defend myself.

To the OP: All of the guides recommended in this thread are good ones - you can't go wrong. They will take 3 people up Solar Slab but they will not exceed a 2:1 ratio and therefore you'd need to hire two. There are many reasons for this. If what you want is a partner, you should title this thread as such. If you want a guide, however, yes, it will cost money. But it will also pay dividends in terms of how much you'll learn, your chances for success on the route, and the chances of having a great experience in general.

Disclaimer: I am not a guide nor do I live in red rocks, I'm just a guy who climbed the route onsight a few months ago.

For reference: My partner and I are 5.10 trad leaders, good cardio shape, but no experience in red rocks.

We were the first ones at the gate because we we were worried about being behind other parties. Not sure exactly what time we got to the gate, but we had to wait for a little while at the gate. Once through the gate, we parked and moving at a decent clip, we got to the base in roughly an hour. Although fairly long, the approach is not steep or all that rugged. We soloed the route and opted to avoid Johnny Vegas and approach via the standard chimney. We did not rappel the route and the walk off was much more challenging than the ascent.

I don't recall anything beyond 5.5 on the route. The route is extremely obvious, I quickly looked at the guidebook topo and don't think I took one step off route. The belay anchors and features are extremely obvious. Lastly, even though I didn't do the rappels, as I understand it they are as straightforward as it gets.

Admittedly, I know nothing about you and your team's experience level, but I can't think of a better introduction to large wall multipitch than solar slab. If you're not confident in your leading, anchor building, or rapelling, than obviously a guide is the right choice. However, you stated your solid climbers with gear so I would consider going for it. Also, in terms of anchors, I soloed the route so someone correct me if this is incorrect but I recall the vast majority if not all of the anchors are fixed. Just my .02 cents.

TheBirdman wrote:However, you stated your solid climbers with gear so I would consider going for it.

Um...
1. they do not have trad leading experience
2. they do not have a trad rack

YARRRRRR!

Dow Williams wrote: Adam, don't feel that way. Josh Janes with Jackson Hole Mountain Guides is envious of my lifestyle and creates fake avatars, etc to troll me on mountain project. He obviously does not have the balls to state any of this in person. I told him to "grow the fuck up and pick up after his dog" once and it has been down hill for him ever since. He was not really directing that at you with his latest tirade. Nor was I obviously, as it was a fake account set up for trolling and it looks like MP found it already. Had nothing to do with you whatsoever. Austin Baird has no excuse except that he spends entirely too much time on the internet. Never heard of him and he seems to never have anything substantial or helpful to add. You will find a few of those on here, heavy on the keyboard, light on climbing. I believe everyone else has been quite polite to you on this thread. Hope you have a good trip. Ever need any route advice regarding Red Rock or the southwestern deserts in general, feel free to message me. Thanks for the kind words Jeff, hope all is well.

Hi Dow,

You talk about having the balls to admit things in person. Simple question, do you guide in Red Rock?

I look forward to the response.

Thanks,

Doug

Did I tell you guys I'm a professional athlete and sponsored by like 90 companies?

No Big Deal

Jealous?

Classic thread.

Marc801 wrote: Um... 1. they do not have trad leading experience 2. they do not have a trad rack

Adam Nurmi wrote:We are three solid climbers that are looking to climb solar slabs between the 26th and the 29th of November, depending on the weather. we will be camping in Red Rocks and hope to find someone that will be a trad leader that we can follow up. We have the ropes and equipment for the three of us, we just lack someone with trad skills and a rack. We all climb well above the rating of the pitches on solar slab, it would just be nice to have someone that has experience on the route, and the descent. Thanks, Adam

I misunderstood. I read "solid climbers" and "have ropes and equipment for the three of us" as meaning they were somewhat competent, just inexperienced and unfamiliar with Solar Slab. Thanks for the assistance Marc, my reading comprehension needs work.

WOW! I go climbing for 4 days and this post turns into pirate photos. We ended up having a blast in red rocks even without doing Solar Slabs, I think I could climb a few hours a day for the rest of my life, and never finish all the routes in there. I actually spoke with someone in the park that was guiding professionally and he expounded on the limited number of actual pro guide permits that are issued in that area. For the future I will title my posts appropriately. I was able to get a couple of the well protected sport multi pitch routes so it wasn't a total bust, and even more epic single pitch routes.

Adam

Adam Burch wrote:

Is that Castleton Tower? I was up there in early October, which route did you take?

Adam Nurmi wrote: Is that Castleton Tower? I was up there in early October, which route did you take?

Oh, that's just a picture I found on the internet - I'm not sure where that is, but I'd imagine no valid licenses were involved ;)

Your public awaits, Dow! Give the little guy the mic and let it drop!

Aguille De Joshua Tree...ride em' cowboy style for Halloween 2015....Joanne Urioste's choice for my shirt was particularly painful..I had made fun of Jorge wearing wife beaters...and got my due