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Guide for Solar Slab between the 26th and 29th

Original Post
Adam Nurmi · · Colorado Springs · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0

We are three solid climbers that are looking to climb solar slabs between the 26th and the 29th of November, depending on the weather. we will be camping in Red Rocks and hope to find someone that will be a trad leader that we can follow up. We have the ropes and equipment for the three of us, we just lack someone with trad skills and a rack. We all climb well above the rating of the pitches on solar slab, it would just be nice to have someone that has experience on the route, and the descent.

Thanks,

Adam

Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,625

OH, you mean a guide?
Here:
redrockclimbingcenter.com/m…

Adam Nurmi · · Colorado Springs · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0
Muscrat wrote:OH, you mean a guide? Here: redrockclimbingcenter.com/m…
Thank for linking to them, unfortunately they are not offering guide service for a multi-pitch for more than 2..
FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Adam Nurmi wrote: Thank for linking to them, unfortunately they are not offering guide service for a multi-pitch for more than 2..
And rightfully so. Too much increased risk and inefficiency with 1 guide and 3 followers.

Why don't you hire two guides for a 1:1 and a 1:2 ratio?

Contact Mark Limage at Jackson Hole Mountain Guides (in Red Rock) here:

jhmg.com/adventure/red-rock…
Eric Chabot · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 45

just solo it out bruh

JF1 · · Idaho · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 400

I concur, more than two clients for multi pitch is just inconsiderate for others and even for the guides.

Nicholas Gillman · · Las Vegas · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 327

Hit up the AAI they have great local guides , Doug Foust is the man and Ive only heard good things about Andrew Yasso aswell.

cassondra l · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 335

Yep, they are both awesome.

Stan Hampton · · St. Charles, MO · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 0

Have any of you climbed any multipitch routes in Red Rocks?
Are you all very competent at rappelling?
Have any of you ever climbed in a group of 4 on a multipitch route before?
Have you ever rappelled in a group of 4 on a multipitch route?
Have any of you climbed 13 pitches before?
Have you read the topo for Solsr Slab? Are you aware of what the climb entails?

Very early start, 4am is a suggestion or earlier.
You have to eat, pack your gear, get you food and water and then drive to the trailhead. It is highly recommend to hike in from outside the park to get an earlier start ( the park gates open at 6 am and you have to drive all the way around the 15mile loop at 35mph to get to the very last trailhead close to the end of the loop otherwise).
The hike to the base is 2hours if all of you can keep a good pace.
You then have to flake the ropes and rack up at the base (note: minimum 2 rope are needed)
The leader has to climb the route first, then the second and them the second and third cam climb on one rope at the same speed. This all takes time, especially if you are not efficient at multipitch.
Any problems cleaning gear will slow this down more.
Then you have to transfer gear and ropes and repeat for another 12 pitches.
Then if you top out all 4 of you have to do 2 rappells and the long descent back to the base.
And from there you still have a 2 hour hike out to the road.
Note: if you dont make it up all 13 pitches then all 4 of you have to rappell all the pitches you have climbed.

So assume you take 15 min each to climb a pitch and 15minutes to transfer gear and ropes thats 1 hour per pitch.
13 pitches x 1 hr is 13hrs.
2hrs hike in and 2hrs out is 4 hrs.
3-4hrs to rappell and descend to the base.
30min to rack up at the base.
13+4+0.5+3-4 = 20.5 to 21.5hrs
So if you get up at 4am and start at the trail by 5am (not likely)
that would put you back at the car by 1:30am or 2:30am the next morning.
So that means you would be climbing a minimum 1.5hrs after dark, rappelling 1-2hrs after dark, descending to the base adter dark and hiking out after dark.
This all assumes there are no delays climbing, gear and rope transfers are flawless. The rope doesnt get stuck on rappel, and you dont get lost on the descent or hike out.
Throw in some cold weather and the dark and this will likely slow you down nore.

Still interested in climbing this route in a party of 4?
Hire a guide each or learn how to lead yourselves and climb it for free when you have the skills to do it fast and efficiently.

Note: I have climbed this route with another leader and have also guided 4 climbers on it (i knew we didnt have enough time to top out & didnt intend to).

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
rockklimber wrote:The hike to the base is 2hours if all of you can keep a good pace.
Not to sound too nit-picky, but I seem to remember the hike in at about one hour. And I'm not very fast.

Edit: The few times I hiked in, it was from inside the park, not outside of the loop road.
Brad Warne · · Calgary, Alberta · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,320

^^^^^^^Youre kidding right?!!^^^^^^^^^

sarcasm · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 445
rockklimber wrote:Have any of you climbed any multipitch routes in Red Rocks? Are you all very competent.........So I am pretty aware of what it takes to get up this route.
I know we're not supposed to be a jerk, but fuck this guy.
Stan Hampton · · St. Charles, MO · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 0
FrankPS wrote: Not to sound too nit-picky, but I seem to remember the hike in at about one hour. And I'm not very fast. Edit: The few times I hiked in, it was from inside the park, not outside of the loop road.
I have hiked in from inside the park too. Inside the park is shorter but outside you dont have to wait for the gates to open, dont have to drive around the loop and dont have to worry about a ticket if you get back to your car too late after dark.
BigB · · Red Rock, NV · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 340

45min-1hr approach from the 13m loop(oak creek parking lot)
1:30 from main road ...if your slow

It is a BIG day though ...no matter the nitpicking!

mediocre · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0
Wow Dilliams wrote: It usually takes competent parties in proper condition no more than 25 minutes to reach the base of the Solar Slab Gully/Johnny Vegas. The fat and lazy may take longer. The last time I was up there with the Uriostes (most prolific FA'ist in RR history and good friends of mine) there were tons of parties being slow, leaving gear, and not using double rope technique all over the place. Regardless, drop me a line, I might know someone who can be of assistance to you. If you are in need of further beta or some more great info, check out my extensive Red Rock beta on SummitPost.org as I am usually too busy to post on MP
Nice name dropping.

One time, when I was a valet in college, I parked Tom Cruises car.

True story.
Austin Baird · · SLC, Utah · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 95
Wow Dilliams wrote: It usually takes competent parties in proper condition no more than 25 minutes to reach the base of the Solar Slab Gully/Johnny Vegas. The fat and lazy may take longer. The last time I was up there with the Uriostes (most prolific FA'ist in RR history and good friends of mine) there were tons of parties being slow, leaving gear, and not using double rope technique all over the place. Regardless, drop me a line, I might know someone who can be of assistance to you. If you are in need of further beta or some more great info, check out my extensive Red Rock beta on SummitPost.org as I am usually too busy to post on MP
Bro - are you like a professional climber bro who splits his time between the desert and sick ice lines in Canada? Bro. For reals.

This is my new favorite account ever.
M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911
Adam Nurmi wrote:We are three solid climbers that are looking to climb solar slabs between the 26th and the 29th of November, depending on the weather. we will be camping in Red Rocks and hope to find someone that will be a trad leader that we can follow up. We have the ropes and equipment for the three of us, we just lack someone with trad skills and a rack. We all climb well above the rating of the pitches on solar slab, it would just be nice to have someone that has experience on the route, and the descent. Thanks, Adam
I'd think an offer of one case of good beer per person to the guide would be a fair place to start.
Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
rockklimber wrote:...and 15minutes to transfer gear and ropes...
Arguably if it's taking someone that long at a belay change-over, then they really don't have any business being on more than a 2-3 pitch beginner route until they sort out their skills and get that time down to sub-3 minutes.
jason.cre · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 10
Marc801 wrote: Arguably if it's taking someone that long at a belay change-over, then they really don't have any business being on more than a 2-3 pitch beginner route until they sort out their skills and get that time down to sub-3 minutes.
yeah i think that is the point everyone is making here. Maybe you missed the part where they were looking for someone who has trad gear and knows how to lead trad.
Adam Nurmi · · Colorado Springs · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0

So sorry for no responses on this post, I was blocked by the spam bots since my registration is so new..

I appreciate everyone's contributions, I guess I need to provide more information.

The initial posting was meant to find someone locally or in Red Rocks for the weekend, I do have experience on Solar Slabs and Johnny Vegas, unfortunately it was 2 years ago, and we didn't finish it. The main reason I was looking for someone that could lead it, was I am flying out and our carry on and checked both have restrictive weight limits, so a trad rack was initially prohibitive, and I thought I would be flamed even more if I posted "Looking to borrow a Trad Rack"

The second thing, was I have not lead any of the routes Trad wise in red rocks, so I didn't initially know where to start even collecting a rack..

But on a side note, how did this turn into an argument over approach times? and petty banter regarding assumptions of our qualifications? I feel like some folks are not observing Guideline #1

Adam

Adam Nurmi · · Colorado Springs · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0
T Roper wrote: I'd think an offer of one case of good beer per person to the guide would be a fair place to start.
Apologies for not knowing the secret handshake..
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Nevada
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