Good shoes for harder Gunks routes?

I've been wearing Sportiva Mythos for years and still love them. Really like the Miuras as well. Scarpas just don't fit my feet well. I think any quality shoe will work, especially edging shoes, so the fit is what counts.

5.10 Pinks...all you need

Miura lace.

I've done less than a half a dozen Gunks routes in the grades you're talking about, so take this with a grain of salt, but...

Whatever fits you well and allows for good smedging. Smedging means you can smear your toe into little tiny dime-edges or crystals, and really feel what you're doing so you can trust your feet.

I agree with everyone who says you do not want an aggressively downturned shoe. Save those for other climbing areas where the crux feet are sharper and steeper.

For me, I like my Anasazi Velcros. But it's really a matter of what fits your feet.

GO

I've done a bit of climbing in that range at the gunks. Miura lace has always got it done for me. Can't ever remember a climb I'd done in that range with really delicate edging routes. Most of the classics (yellow wall, kligfields, eduroman, etc) feature a combination of smearing and big pulls with great feet. But that was just my experience.

BrianKostelnik57 wrote:If TC pros are adequate for 5.14+ on El Cap, shouldn't they do the trick on 5.11+ in the Gunks?

Of course not. Everyone knows that Gunks 11s are harder than El Cap 14s

BrianKostelnik57 wrote:If TC pros are adequate for 5.14+ on El Cap, shouldn't they do the trick on 5.11+ in the Gunks?

Yes.

This (exactly this, as well as the fact that several locals I know climb quite hard in TC's) is why I've been resisting various friends' suggestions that I get into a more aggressive shoe.

But then it occurred to me that to the extent that I've improved lately, it's largely been through listening to these folks about other aspects of climbing, so I figured, "maybe this'll be good advice too!"

Another vote for TC Pros, get a tighter pair. I climb in the Gunks frequently. The harder stuff can certainly require some edging, but not as a rule. I feel I can stand on just about anything with TC Pros, even in warmer temps. However, for the vast majority of hard stuff I've climbed at the Gunks, I used Mocassyms in my street shoe size.

Wildly varies by the route. I alternate between a tight pair of Anasazi Blancos and Teams