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How to document an FA?

Original Post
RicardoD · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 560

There is a this possible 5.13 route at my local crag that I have been working on for a couple of days. It doesn't have an FA, so I have hopes that I will be the first to send it. My question is, how do you document if I do achieve it? Do I need to record it for proof, or is my belayer a good enough witness?

DrRockso RRG · · Red River Gorge, KY · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 815

You need video from minimum 3 different angles, a photographer, and 3 signed witness affidavits, otherwise no FA.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Is there a local guidebook author you could ask? Have you checked on MP? That's where I'd start.

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

If it is a local crag I am sure someone at some point has climbed it, if you want FA you need to go out into the wild.

frank minunni · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined May 2011 · Points: 95

Not necessarily. You'd be surprised what can be overlooked.

RicardoD · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 560

I saw the local guidebook author today and asked. He said, my belayer would be sufficient, and it is still unsent. The crag only bolted and opened a few months ago. But thanks for all the information!

David Gibbs · · Ottawa, ON · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2
DrRockso wrote:You need video from minimum 3 different angles, a photographer, and 3 signed witness affidavits, otherwise no FA.
And at least 2 of those three witnesses must have 8a.nu accounts on which they've recorded at least 4 ascents at the 8b level, or higher.
Walter Galli · · Las vegas · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 2,247
DrRockso wrote:You need video from minimum 3 different angles, a photographer, and 3 signed witness affidavits, otherwise no FA.
Where did you get this info?
Walter Galli · · Las vegas · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 2,247
David Gibbs wrote: And at least 2 of those three witnesses must have 8a.nu accounts on which they've recorded at least 4 ascents at the 8b level, or higher.
And where did you get those rules?
JPVallone · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 195

Mark it 0 Dude!

Joy likes trad · · Southern California · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 71

If it's not ground up onsight who cares? Grab your drill, set up a rapp, clean it, work the moves, find the clip stances and set the anchors.

disclaimer: You should talk to the locals first.

Jeff Thilking · · Lynchburg, VA · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 65

Walter, they are jerking your funkness device, those aren't rules and are for humor.
+1 as they are pretty damn funny as we are in the go pro era. Unrelated to climbing but last year saw a fool skiing with a helmet cam, chest cam, and cam on a stick. I guess he will be on the mag covers this season...

Walter Galli · · Las vegas · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 2,247

Jeff, got it,, wath a world,,

M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 5,090
RicardoD wrote:I saw the local guidebook author today and asked. He said, my belayer would be sufficient, and it is still unsent. The crag only bolted and opened a few months ago. But thanks for all the information!
If it has only been bolted a few months and hasn't had an FA, it is probably the person who bolted it's project. They may be fine with others trying it, but courtesy suggests you ask them. If there is a red tag stay off it. A red tag indicates "stay off", either because the the bolting and other prep work is unfinished (and possibly dangerous, bad bolt or something) or the setter is requesting reasonable time to finish climbing it, which should be granted considering their vision, work and expense. It sucks to feel somebody breathing down your neck when trying to do a good job creating a route, unless you thrive on the competition.

If it is all cool for you to get on it and you get the FA, post it up here and let the guidebook author know about it. Climbing accomplishments have always mostly been honor based and your word and your belayer should suffice, though there have been a small number of deficient people who falsely claim FAs or stretch the meaning. If you are really worried about proving it to a sponsor or something, set up a camera on video.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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