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Routes in Army Slab
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Boot Camp S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Chimney Sweep T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Choss Roof T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Cruiser Gully T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Ex-Green Beret T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ice Cream Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ice Cream Sunday TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Rooster, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tree Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,131 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Patrick Yarbrough on Oct 31, 2014 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Road closure and reopened after flood damage!
Details
Per Steven Armijo: Cheyenne Canyon Road is closed until May 2022 for bridge repairs. Only hiking and biking trail access is allowed into the canyon.
Per Stewart M. Green: the North Cheyenne Canyon was reopened after the floods of 2015.
Per Stewart M. Green: ATTENTION!! The Colorado Springs Parks Department has CLOSED ALL CITY PARKS, including Garden of the Gods, Red Rock Canyon Open Space, and North Cheyenne Canon, to rock climbing for the upcoming Memorial Day weekend.
This is due to record rainfall totals in western Colorado Springs which as caused severe trail and parking lot damage, saturated the sandstone cliffs, and is causing parts of cliffs to break off.
The parks will be re-evaluated on Monday to determine how the closure will last.
Please respect the closures and take care of our precious climbing areas!
Per Stewart M. Green: the North Cheyenne Canyon was reopened after the floods of 2015.
Per Stewart M. Green: ATTENTION!! The Colorado Springs Parks Department has CLOSED ALL CITY PARKS, including Garden of the Gods, Red Rock Canyon Open Space, and North Cheyenne Canon, to rock climbing for the upcoming Memorial Day weekend.
This is due to record rainfall totals in western Colorado Springs which as caused severe trail and parking lot damage, saturated the sandstone cliffs, and is causing parts of cliffs to break off.
The parks will be re-evaluated on Monday to determine how the closure will last.
Please respect the closures and take care of our precious climbing areas!
Description
This is a different route than the 5.3 face climb listed in Bob and Carrie Robertson's guide to the area.
Starting just left of the tree on the ledge, climb up to a left-facing arete that eventually contours into a roof. Traverse 20 or 30 feet left under the roof to the anchor for Ice Cream Crack.
There most definitely is some choss on the climb, but we tried to clean it up as much as we could, but still be wary of loose rock. It has a nice alpine feel to me for some reason, probably because of the lichen and loose rock encountered, but the climbing is fun enough to make it worth doing at least once.
Starting just left of the tree on the ledge, climb up to a left-facing arete that eventually contours into a roof. Traverse 20 or 30 feet left under the roof to the anchor for Ice Cream Crack.
There most definitely is some choss on the climb, but we tried to clean it up as much as we could, but still be wary of loose rock. It has a nice alpine feel to me for some reason, probably because of the lichen and loose rock encountered, but the climbing is fun enough to make it worth doing at least once.
Location
This is the rightmost route on the Army Slabs. Start to the left of the tree growing out of the ledge.
Protection
Cams up to 2.5". I didn't see many opportunities for nuts or other passive pro (although you could probably use some tricams if you want). Traverse left to the two bolt anchors for Ice Cream Crack.
This used just about an entire 60m rope, so you might want to avoid this if you have a shorter rope.
This used just about an entire 60m rope, so you might want to avoid this if you have a shorter rope.
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