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What does your Woody look like???

Zeke6 · · Akron, Ohio · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 80
Eli Buzzell wrote: I'm really curious as to what you have the bolts attached to, how solid is it all?
If you are talking the overhang...
There are 2 structural 2x10 beams running up the ceiling (the dark brown beams). Bridging the two beams are 2x8's that attach to the beams with metal brackets. The brackets allow for many screws to attach each end. These are visible in the pictures. The hangers are in 2x8's that are horizontal with a thick wood spacer. The bolt used to hold the hanger is somewhere around 6 inches and has a lock washer, spacer and nut. The other 2x8's are placed in vertically for stronger support and not to get in the way of the T-nuts. 4x8 sheets are 3/4" thick.

On the vertical section..
Hangers are bolted into bridged areas between two structural beams. Bolt used is similar to overhang. Basically removed drywall and put up wood.

The woody is solid like in the morning. It is a strong structure. Nothing creeks or groans. I feel 100% safe.
Eli Buzzell · · noco · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 5,507

Nice! I was just curious as to how you did it.

Zeke6 · · Akron, Ohio · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 80

Before building I looked all over the web to see what people built to support a lead wall. Couldn't find anything so just used my common sense PLUS asked many other peoples opinions.

Walter Galli · · Las vegas · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 2,247
Zeke6 wrote:Before building I looked all over the web to see what people built to support a lead wall. Couldn't find anything so just used my common sense PLUS asked many other peoples opinions.
If you go to school of Rock there is a bouldering section that explained how to do it..
Zeke6 · · Akron, Ohio · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 80
Wolverine wrote: If you go to school of Rock there is a bouldering section that explained how to do it..
I looked just now and didn't see anything about lead walls. I would like to read if you can point me there please.
Walter Galli · · Las vegas · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 2,247
Zeke6 wrote: I looked just now and didn't see anything about lead walls. I would like to read if you can point me there please.
You right, there is nothing about that, sorry I thought I saw it.. Good job by the way I like the height.
Walter Galli · · Las vegas · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 2,247
Guigui wrote: I'm building this for my kids. One four year old and a six month old. We have no climbing experience but it is always something I though would be fun to have as a kid and learn. We just started climbing on it two weeks ago and it is the first thing my daughter ask to do in the morning and night. The tunnels go to their bedrooms where they will have trapdoors to access passageways to the climbing area. These still need to be finished.
When we are going to see the holds on that beauty?
Zeke6 · · Akron, Ohio · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 80
Wolverine wrote: You right, there is nothing about that, sorry I thought I saw it.. Good job by the way I like the height.
Thanks! The height is the best part. I got lucky with my garage having such high ceilings.

Still wondering if anyone has any good suggestions on putting up a crack in the overhang. I saw this and thought something like this would be good and it ran the length of the overhang. Just it takes up a lot of room where I could put holds.

An adjustable permanent system would be best. HMMMM..

Cracksystem
Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,625
Zeke6 wrote: Thanks! The height is the best part. I got lucky with my garage having such high ceilings. Still wondering if anyone has any good suggestions on putting up a crack in the overhang. I saw this and thought something like this would be good and it ran the length of the overhang. Just it takes up a lot of room where I could put holds. An adjustable permanent system would be best. HMMMM..
SO if it is worth the work, and i am thinking of doing this in my woody/barn, laminate plywood between the cracks, apply holds. Would take a little work, but voila, no wasted space.
Zeke6 · · Akron, Ohio · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 80
Muscrat wrote: SO if it is worth the work, and i am thinking of doing this in my woody/barn, laminate plywood between the cracks, apply holds. Would take a little work, but voila, no wasted space.
I'm not quite sure I understand what you are saying here. Could you explain the laminate plywood between the cracks.
Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,625

Using the picture of the crack machine as a guide

crack machine
The 'cracks' are built with 2-2x4 or 6. The width between the cracks is random, here described by 2 2x's, but could be wider, by leaving a 'gap' between. lets say you have 10" between cracks. Rip a 10" wide piece of plywood and laminate it (IE screw in on to) the 2x's. You now have cracks 10" apart, or whatever you decided, with plywood faces in between. Add t-nuts, voila.
And if you don't like the plywood edges in on the edge of the crack, you can either edge the ply, or get fancy and 'dap' it in.
I'm really liking this idea, have been wanting to have some cracks on my woody, this is good!

Zeke6 · · Akron, Ohio · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 80
Muscrat wrote:Using the picture of the crack machine as a guide The 'cracks' are built with 2-2x4 or 6. The width between the cracks is random, here described by 2 2x's, but could be wider, by leaving a 'gap' between. lets say you have 10" between cracks. Rip a 10" wide piece of plywood and laminate it (IE screw in on to) the 2x's. You now have cracks 10" apart, or whatever you decided, with plywood faces in between. Add t-nuts, voila. And if you don't like the plywood edges in on the edge of the crack, you can either edge the ply, or get fancy and 'dap' it in. I'm really liking this idea, have been wanting to have some cracks on my woody, this is good!
Ah, I think I know what you're saying. Make the frame the crack system, screw the 3/4" plywood to the crack system. Space out cracks for plywood and then put on holds. I see positives and negatives for my setup. Positive would be variety of crack full length. Be very appealing and great climbing. Negative, have to stick out 4" further, have to re-arrange my hangers. HMMM need to think more deeply this is a good idea!!

cRACK
Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,625

Exactamundo. Yeah, i think i am going to tear down one of my sections and do this! Teamwork!

Zeke6 · · Akron, Ohio · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 80

Teamwork indeed! I have a few more projects around the house then I will probably attempt a remodel!

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

I have been revising my crack wall.

18 ft high

Crack sizes from large to small:

-OW hand stacks to fist stacks
-fists
-very big hands
-tight hands
-very tight hands
-3 different 1 1/8" cracks, straight in, and left and right corners
-decreasing size from there by 1/8" increments, 1", 7/8", 3/4", 5/8", and two extra finger cracks on sides of the ladder from tips to second knuckle.

Total of 14 cracks.

Still a work in progress; I'll be adding a few more overhanging straight in and corners in tight hands and big hands sizes on the opposite side of the alcove. And the side walls now have some holds, and I'll continue to work on improving the face climbing aspect of the alcove.

crack wall remodel

Eric Klammer · · Eagle, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 2,070

A picture of "the compound". Counter clockwise from the right we've got the slackline, drytool woody that continues across the chain and up the tree, Bachar ladder, and pull-up/hangboard/rings woody.

The compound.

y2kdeuce · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 20

First attempt at a wall. I'm no carpenter. Roughly 7' x 8' x 7' cave with a 40 degree roof section. 24" x 24" hole in the corner to top out.

Casey on the roof

First climb

Framing

Paul Sarahan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 15

A picture of the wall, and one of the framing. Thanks to everyone for the advice and awesome pictures, etc.

The first section ended up at 38.5 degrees, second is 22ish, and the far side is vertical. It needs some major work with setting routes, but we have found a few fun ones so far. I just threw all of the holds up there in semi-random locations to start with until I figure out what I am doing.

We are calling it the green monster for now. The color was in the 50% off section at the hardware store and ended up a little brighter than I was going for, but it is starting to grow on me. I might add some different color volumes, or different color patterns to tone it down a bit.

Finished wall

Wall Framing

BCarlson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 40

Looks great Paul! Your seafoam green will tone down after you chalk it up and smear some rubber on it :).
First few times setting I found myself spending an absurd amount of time just setting the routes and ended up doing what you did, just slap the holds on in a semi-random fashion and the routes will show themselves. You can always tweak/swap holds as the route develops.

Early morning woody.

Ray Lovestead · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 108

Has anyone ever used this stuff for their cracks?

TotalTread Non-skid boat paint

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