Quicklink Question
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Triple Exposure P1 Anchors
I had a question about this anchor. What is/is there a benefit to having that rusted lower link instead of just using the master quicklink for rappeling? Seems like the master stainless steel link would be stronger and that lower link just weakens the anchor system? Am I missing something? Thank you! Zach |
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I agree. Seems it's used to change the direction of the rope off the rock face. I think another quick link in place of the rusted one would be better |
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JoeGaribay wrote:I agree. Seems it's used to change the direction of the rope off the rock face. I think another quick link in place of the rusted one would be betterThis. Next time you climb it, replace it with a new quicklink. |
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Rusted link is to face your cord parallel to the stone...as was point out by Joe. |
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Right on guys. I didn't think about the rope orientation aspect of that second link. |
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Aside from the rope orientation, another reason not to use the shiny quick link is that the either the rusty link or the chain from the low third bolt could jam the rope when it's being pulled. |
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The entire anchor is silly. Instead of replacing the pins they just added a bolt? Poor/ lazy form IMO. Remove the pins, bore out the holes, install two glue-in bolts, patch the other holes, then add a quicklink on the two bolts and a length of chain and you're done. |
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20 kN wrote:The entire anchor is silly. Instead of replacing the pins they just added a bolt? Poor/ lazy form IMO. Remove the pins, bore out the holes, install two glue-in bolts, patch the other holes, then add a quicklink on the two bolts and a length of chain and you're done.I don't pretend to understand the nuances of Garden of The God's rock but the locals down there I have spoken too are very proud of their drilled pins. I suspect some of it may be practical and some may be tradition. |
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20 kN wrote:Remove the pins!?!?! Blasphemy! Clearly, you are not familiar with the Garden bolting ethos, haha. The ethic is to keep falling on 'em until they rip, and then to gingerly replace said angle in it's original hole for the next un-suspecting victim... (I jest, but not really...) |
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What a fucking mess of an anchor, 4 pins, a bolt, 2 chains, 5 quicklinks, and you still have an anchor that probably wouldn't even hold 2000lbs at the lap link. As another poster said 2 glue-ins, 2 quicklinks and a couple chains. Leave the pins as relics if people are butthurt about them being removed? |
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Rick Blair wrote: I don't pretend to understand the nuances of Garden of The God's rock but the locals down there I have spoken too are very proud of their drilled pins. I suspect some of it may be practical and some may be tradition.Sure, and some locals still believe that chipping holds is acceptable. Local ethic is important, but there is a line. I think most people would agree two solid bolts is ethically more responsible than several manky, rusting, unsightly drilled pins and a separate bolt all joining on a conglomerate of chain, quicklinks and other mank. Besides, there is already a 1/2" bolt in that anchor, which kind of strikes the whole "no bolts" argument. I've climbed at the Garden before and I recall rapping off a bolted anchor on more than one occasion. |
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And most of the quicklinks are installed the wrong way up. Fundamentally a mess as has been noted already. |
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Jim Titt wrote:And most of the quicklinks are installed the wrong way up. Fundamentally a mess as has been noted already.Threaded rod end up or down? And why is one better than the other? Thanks. |
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S. Neoh wrote: Threaded rod end up or down? And why is one better than the other? Thanks.Install so the gate screws downward. This helps prevent it coming lose from vibration. Of course adequately tightening it with a wrench prevents this as well. |
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20 kN wrote: Install so the gate screws downward. This helps prevent it coming lose from vibration. Of course adequately tightening it with a wrench prevents this as well.Is there more to this? I have thought a dab of Locktite or equivalent on the thread of the link is standard practice. No? |
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S. Neoh wrote: Is there more to this? I have thought a dab of Locktite or equivalent on the thread of the link is standard practice. No?I have never unscrewed an anchor that had Locktite on it. It's not a bad practice, but I dont think it's that common. The idea behind pointing the link so that the nose of the quicklink is pointing down, gravity helps hold the gate closed. If you point the nose of the link up, gravity helps open the gate (with help from vibration). It's really not a big deal if you just tighten the thing with a wrench, it's more of an issue if you only hand tighten it. Unfortunately if you are adding a link on the last leg of a piece of chain, it doesent matter because people are going to flip the thing around anyway. You can observe this issue with a screwgate biner. Take the biner and screw the gate closed only half way, put a dot on the locking sleeve with a Sharpee so you can see it move, then tap the biner against the wall repeatedly. If you're lucky you might see it slowly screw or unscrew depending on how you hold the biner and how loose the sleeve is. It's not a big deal either way, but it's just good practice to always orientate screwgate biners or links so gravity helps keep the sleeve closed. |
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Thanks, good info. |
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Did I accidentally wander into the jive-ass anchors thread? |