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Quicklink Question

Original Post
Zach Keskinen · · Colorado Springs · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 25
Triple Exposure P1 Anchors

I had a question about this anchor. What is/is there a benefit to having that rusted lower link instead of just using the master quicklink for rappeling? Seems like the master stainless steel link would be stronger and that lower link just weakens the anchor system? Am I missing something?

Thank you!
Zach
Joe Garibay · · Ventura, Ca · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 86

I agree. Seems it's used to change the direction of the rope off the rock face. I think another quick link in place of the rusted one would be better

Micah Klesick · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 3,971
JoeGaribay wrote:I agree. Seems it's used to change the direction of the rope off the rock face. I think another quick link in place of the rusted one would be better
This. Next time you climb it, replace it with a new quicklink.
Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

Rusted link is to face your cord parallel to the stone...as was point out by Joe.

So Zach are you saying that you dont trust this anchor?

looks like you are clipped in to a quick link that is connected to an even thinner, rusted welded ring.

Steel rust outside in the weather esp chrome moly.

fact of life

Zach Keskinen · · Colorado Springs · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 25

Right on guys. I didn't think about the rope orientation aspect of that second link.

Thanks!
Zach

Tom Allen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 55

Aside from the rope orientation, another reason not to use the shiny quick link is that the either the rusty link or the chain from the low third bolt could jam the rope when it's being pulled.

I had problems with a slightly different setup (the quicklink was attached to the next-to-last link of the chain) and had to prusik the rope when I wasn't able to pull it due to the extra chain link jamming the rope.

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346

The entire anchor is silly. Instead of replacing the pins they just added a bolt? Poor/ lazy form IMO. Remove the pins, bore out the holes, install two glue-in bolts, patch the other holes, then add a quicklink on the two bolts and a length of chain and you're done.

Rick Blair · · Denver · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 266
20 kN wrote:The entire anchor is silly. Instead of replacing the pins they just added a bolt? Poor/ lazy form IMO. Remove the pins, bore out the holes, install two glue-in bolts, patch the other holes, then add a quicklink on the two bolts and a length of chain and you're done.
I don't pretend to understand the nuances of Garden of The God's rock but the locals down there I have spoken too are very proud of their drilled pins. I suspect some of it may be practical and some may be tradition.
Chris Dickson · · Telluride, CO · Joined May 2011 · Points: 678
20 kN wrote:Remove the pins
!?!?! Blasphemy!

Clearly, you are not familiar with the Garden bolting ethos, haha. The ethic is to keep falling on 'em until they rip, and then to gingerly replace said angle in it's original hole for the next un-suspecting victim...

(I jest, but not really...)
DrRockso RRG · · Red River Gorge, KY · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 815

What a fucking mess of an anchor, 4 pins, a bolt, 2 chains, 5 quicklinks, and you still have an anchor that probably wouldn't even hold 2000lbs at the lap link. As another poster said 2 glue-ins, 2 quicklinks and a couple chains. Leave the pins as relics if people are butthurt about them being removed?

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346
Rick Blair wrote: I don't pretend to understand the nuances of Garden of The God's rock but the locals down there I have spoken too are very proud of their drilled pins. I suspect some of it may be practical and some may be tradition.
Sure, and some locals still believe that chipping holds is acceptable. Local ethic is important, but there is a line. I think most people would agree two solid bolts is ethically more responsible than several manky, rusting, unsightly drilled pins and a separate bolt all joining on a conglomerate of chain, quicklinks and other mank. Besides, there is already a 1/2" bolt in that anchor, which kind of strikes the whole "no bolts" argument. I've climbed at the Garden before and I recall rapping off a bolted anchor on more than one occasion.
Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490

And most of the quicklinks are installed the wrong way up. Fundamentally a mess as has been noted already.

S. Neoh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 35
Jim Titt wrote:And most of the quicklinks are installed the wrong way up. Fundamentally a mess as has been noted already.
Threaded rod end up or down? And why is one better than the other?
Thanks.
20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346
S. Neoh wrote: Threaded rod end up or down? And why is one better than the other? Thanks.
Install so the gate screws downward. This helps prevent it coming lose from vibration. Of course adequately tightening it with a wrench prevents this as well.
S. Neoh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 35
20 kN wrote: Install so the gate screws downward. This helps prevent it coming lose from vibration. Of course adequately tightening it with a wrench prevents this as well.
Is there more to this? I have thought a dab of Locktite or equivalent on the thread of the link is standard practice. No?
20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346
S. Neoh wrote: Is there more to this? I have thought a dab of Locktite or equivalent on the thread of the link is standard practice. No?
I have never unscrewed an anchor that had Locktite on it. It's not a bad practice, but I dont think it's that common. The idea behind pointing the link so that the nose of the quicklink is pointing down, gravity helps hold the gate closed. If you point the nose of the link up, gravity helps open the gate (with help from vibration). It's really not a big deal if you just tighten the thing with a wrench, it's more of an issue if you only hand tighten it. Unfortunately if you are adding a link on the last leg of a piece of chain, it doesent matter because people are going to flip the thing around anyway.

You can observe this issue with a screwgate biner. Take the biner and screw the gate closed only half way, put a dot on the locking sleeve with a Sharpee so you can see it move, then tap the biner against the wall repeatedly. If you're lucky you might see it slowly screw or unscrew depending on how you hold the biner and how loose the sleeve is. It's not a big deal either way, but it's just good practice to always orientate screwgate biners or links so gravity helps keep the sleeve closed.
S. Neoh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 35

Thanks, good info.
For anchors, we have MANY links at Rumney, almost no chain, quick clips of course which will probably be replaced by ram's horns when the quckies wear out or gate fail to close.
Love the drilled pins show above though. :)

David Gibbs · · Ottawa, ON · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2

Did I accidentally wander into the jive-ass anchors thread?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Fixed Hardware: Bolts & Anchors
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