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Death at Elephants Perch

drewford · · Wasatch Back, UT · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 426

I agree Chris. Just because you can link, doesn't mean you should. In the case of Mountaineers, the belay at the top of P3 is not ideal. But neither is the belay at the top of P4.

Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,374

For personal reasons, I pondered this accident for quite a while. First, thanks to everyone for being so considerate in this case.

My takeaways from this: really consider the consequences if a pendulum fall is a possibility; be aware of the decreased safety when belayer and climber can't see each other; and, anything more than about 20 minutes from town is back country, so have that mindset going in.

Ball · · Oakridge, OR · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 70

It's always the 5.8s...

This isn't the first time, either. I recall a couple dying there on the same route due to placing gear under a rock, which of course didn't hold their weight.

This has nothing to do with linking pitches and everything to do with inexperience and reliance on active pro being some kind of magical talisman.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

Very sad ...

However linking pitches doesnt seem to be the cause ... The problem was multiple pieces pulling ...

Especially on a traverse (and roofs) you need to extend the pieces otherwise the pull of the rope in the fall can rotate em causing multiple gear failure

Also on a traverse is VERY easy to kick or rotate cams as you go past

Nick Sweeney · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 969
bearbreeder wrote:Very sad ... However linking pitches doesnt seem to be the cause ... The problem was multiple pieces pulling ... Especially on a traverse (and roofs) you need to extend the pieces otherwise the pull of the rope in the fall can rotate em causing multiple gear failure Also on a traverse is VERY easy to kick or rotate cams as you go past
My thoughts exactly... linking pitches doesn't seem that it contributed to the accident. The culprit was a poorly protected rising traverse that resulted in a massive pendulum fall.
Chris Owen · · Big Bear Lake · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 11,612

I suspect the fall wouldn't have been so massive coming off a belay as opposed to being a long run from the belay. I could be wrong. A close experienced belayer can be supportive, proactive, give protection advice, reel in the rope, see possible bad scenarios, etc.

I only add this not to blame or chest-beat but perhaps enlighten.

ddriver · · SLC · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 2,084

From Jeff's R&I article linked here:

"Dvorak moved up, manteled over a ledge and climbed out of sight. A few minutes later, when Dvorak was in the vicinity of the first roof and presumably moving left around it, Adams heard the sound of cams snapping out, a muffled scream and a “frightening slam and crash.”"

I'm with Chris on this one re linking pitches probably being a factor here.

The first issue, which is presumptive, is that you have a finite amount of gear and the further you climb the less likely you will have the appropriate piece when needed. You may also decide to run it out more to conserve gear since you plan to go further. Her gear that failed may have been less than optimum.

The second and more likely issue is the probability of rope drag trying to get past the roof by climbing this section at the end of the pitch rather than the beginning. If that was the case and the leader experienced rope drag she might well have rotated her gear due to the lateral forces of the fall or just trying to pull slack.

When you combine those two factors you may well get a leader who experiences panic or a loss of focus, resulting in a fall on what would otherwise be manageable terrain.

The advantage of leading the traverse from the 3rd belay, as in the photo I posted above, should be obvious compared to the possible issues from linking pitches there. My impression from following that section was that it was quite reasonable on good rock with adequate gear. Of course, as they say, your mileage may vary.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

a fall may well be "higher impact" when having a belay close by ... remember that when linking pitches theres a LOT of rope out to absorb the fall

well placed and extended gear should hold just fine in good rock regardless of whether one links the pitches or not

it seems the problem regardless is having multiple pieces pull, especially on a traverse/roof where they should be extended ... the R&I article specifically mentions this

linking pitches does carry its own risk for the leader and the second .... but pulling multiple cams shouldnt be one of em

they arent sure if she did the traverse or went through the roof ... either way something similar to what happens below can happen on a roof or traverse ....

youtube.com/watch?v=vqEbB6z…

folks link pitches all the time ... when you can cut out 1/3-1/2 the belays this can sometimes mean the difference between getting caught in an afternoon storm or being benighted ...

you just need to be aware of what yr doing and make a decision about the risks

rob.calm · · Loveland, CO · Joined May 2002 · Points: 630
bearbreeder wrote:a fall may well be "higher impact" when having a belay close by ... remember that when linking pitches theres ALOT of rope out to absorb the fall
Maybe higher impact, maybe not. In the case in question, probably not as all the extra friction from more rope out on a meandering route will contribute to "higher impact", i.e., a larger fall factor.

rob.calm
Ball · · Oakridge, OR · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 70
rob.calm wrote: Maybe higher impact, maybe not. In the case in question, probably not as all the extra friction from more rope out on a meandering route will contribute to "higher impact", i.e., a larger fall factor. rob.calm
I have to call BS on this. Unless the rope is seriously snagged, ANY more rope out lessens the fall factor.
rob.calm · · Loveland, CO · Joined May 2002 · Points: 630
Ball wrote: I have to call BS on this. Unless the rope is seriously snagged, ANY more rope out lessens the fall factor.
I appreciate your stating that I should Be Sure about what I posted. There is an authoritative literature on the subject of dry friction of the rope against carabiners causing the actual fall-factor to be greater than h/l where h is the distance the climber has fallen and l is the length of the rope from the belayer to the climber. This increase in actual fall-factor has nothing to do with “snags”. Here is a quote from the Petzl website
Petzl Website
Actual Fall Factor

If you wish to learn more about this subject a good place to start is Wikipedia,Wikipedia wherein you’ll find the following: “When the rope is clipped into several carabiners between the climber and the belayer, an additional type of friction occurs, the so-called dry friction between the rope and particularly the last clipped carabiner. Dry friction leads to an effective rope length smaller than the available length L and thus increases the impact force.”

Unless you can provide evidence that these experts on the subject are in error, one can conclude that your assertion of “ANY more rope out lessens the fall factor”, while not always wrong, is misleading. This is especially so on a meandering route such as the one under discussion in this thread.

Rob.calm
Ball · · Oakridge, OR · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 70

So what you're saying is that the climber doesn't feel this friction of a rope zig-zagging all over the place until he falls?

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883

No. That is not what Rob is saying. Of course the leader will feel lots of rope drag if the rope zigs all over the place. Lots of drag means a higher effective fall factor compared to the theoretical fall factor.

When there is a lot of rope between the leader and belayer and the theoretical fall factor is quite low, but the rope is rubbing on the rock and many biners, the resulting frictional will lead to a higher effective fall factor compared to the theoretical fall factor.

But one does not necessarily need to extend every piece indiscriminately. Before and after traverses, before bulges and roofs is a good starting rule of thumb. YMMV.

Tyler Adams · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 0

Hi everyone,
I was Anna's climbing partner on the day of the accident.

I have avoided speaking about this incident, but now with many people speculating and incorrect reports coming out, I just want to clear up a few things that seem to have been confused, as well as help with some of the speculation. I have been in touch with R&I about the incorrect facts in the article which they have since pulled.

I lead and linked P1 and p2 but because of rope drag from the gully and chock stones, I stopped at the ledge with the tree about 80% of the way up pitch 2. I brought up Anna who took lead for p3. When she arrived at the actual anchor for p2 about 4 meters above where I stopped, we discussed having her bring me up, then restart from the original anchors of p2. She decided she'd continue and I agreed. As she was out of sight, due to the ledge above, we stayed in verbal contact. All seemed fine until she fell.

I don't know where she was when she fell, but based on conversations before climbing and again before she took lead, I believe she was on route. Based on her last cam placement I believe she had done the leftward traverse in the middle of p3, but failed to protect it or place anything after the traverse, below the anchor, resulting in a big fall.

No cams pulled. She didn't scream. She was not heading out around the triple roofs of pitch 4. She took a large, inverted, pendulum fall on bad terrain and suffered a traumatic head injury. She was wearing a helmet, but because of the distance and nature of the fall and terrain, she was still badly injured.

She was a lovely person and is dearly missed by many.

Climb safely, everyone.

Tyler

Ball · · Oakridge, OR · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 70

Thank you Tyler for helping to clarify the issue. The grapevine is reliable as always.

In your opinion did she take what is traditionally known as a whipper (swinging)? These are more dangerous than falling vertically especially if the belayer cannot tell how much rope to give out. A tight-roped swing of 15' is like falling 15' on your side if you hit a wall or dihedral. I always get a little weirded out when traversing out of a corner and the pro is in the corner.

johnnyrig · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 105

Thank you for the clarification.
I'm sorry for your loss.

Pendulum falls, although you stop moving vertically, simply transfer the same relative speed into a sideways motion. I think that's what was trying to be said in a previous post... so if you fall on a traverse you'll be moving laterally at the bottom of the swing with the same speed as you would have in a pure vertical fall of the same height without a rope. Correct me if I'm wrong; but I didn't see a direct mention of it up thread.

JSharpe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 0

Sounds like someone should put a bolt or two in there on the traverse. Could save lives, and when it gets so much traffic as it sounds. No mountain egos needed on a route like that...

WoodyW · · Alaska · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 70

God bless her! It hits VERY close to home reading about her accident. Can't help but wonder if she was wearing a helmet. I suffered a severe traumatic brain injury(fractured skull) while climbing and it completely changed my life. For the first time since, I have survivors guilt reading this. Damn. May she rest in peace & climb forever in paradise.

Bill Lawry · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,812
ColinW wrote:Can't help but wonder if she was wearing a helmet.
Tyler indicated that Anna was wearing a helmet.

Thank you, Tyler. Virtually all of us understand about waiting to post. And we appreciate the clarification.

Best wishes to you and those close to Anna. Absolutely nothing easy about it.
Bill
Chris Graham · · Bartlett, NH · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 545

Oh my gosh, so tragic. Thoughts and prayers with the family and loved ones.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Injuries and Accidents
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