Alex Honnold's relationship angst fuels free solo of Rainbow Wall, excerpt from his new book

christoph benells wrote:David Roberts' "Mountain of My Fear" is great.

I've read that book. No complaints. I also liked this excerpt from Alex's book. I've both mountaineered and free soloed big routes. I actually found Alex's account to be honest and very engaging.

Seems to me your complaint stems from either not liking the subject matter or not liking the author. Fair enough. It's not an honest review though.

I assume this is where the following happened?

Leah Sandvoss solving the crux of P11 (11d) on Rainbow Wall (Original Route). Photo by Andre Kiryanov
mountainproject.com/v/10765…

"Four or five times I climbed up those ripples, surveyed the situation, and climbed back down. It was simply out of the question to jump for the jug. If you don’t catch the hold, you’re off and down . . . and dead.
Slowly an alternative dawned on me. Just in reach from the ripples was a tiny divot, a natural hole in the stone caused by a black iron-oxide intrusion. I could sink only about a third of the first digit of my left index finger into the divot, then stack my middle finger and my thumb on top of it. It would be the ultimate crimp, and I’m sure the divot had never been used before. Finally, I committed my whole weight to the jammed tip of my finger, smeared an opposing foot against the corner, and pulled. My finger in the divot held, and I grabbed the jug with my other hand. Strangely, instead of fear, I felt complete serenity as I made the move."

Legion wrote:I assume this is where the following happened? mountainproject.com/v/10765… "Four or five times I climbed up those ripples, surveyed the situation, and climbed back down. It was simply out of the question to jump for the jug. If you don’t catch the hold, you’re off and down . . . and dead. Slowly an alternative dawned on me. Just in reach from the ripples was a tiny divot, a natural hole in the stone caused by a black iron-oxide intrusion. I could sink only about a third of the first digit of my left index finger into the divot, then stack my middle finger and my thumb on top of it. It would be the ultimate crimp, and I’m sure the divot had never been used before. Finally, I committed my whole weight to the jammed tip of my finger, smeared an opposing foot against the corner, and pulled. My finger in the divot held, and I grabbed the jug with my other hand. Strangely, instead of fear, I felt complete serenity as I made the move."

that looks like the crux he's talking about. nice find!

Tim Lutz wrote: Since Honnold's writinng is so horrible to you, what is an example of amazing 'mountaineering literature?'

I thought Kelly Cordes' "The Tower" was fantastic.

Tim Lutz wrote: Since Honnold's writinng is so horrible to you, what is an example of amazing 'mountaineering literature?'

Climbing friend,

I share with you amazing literature of the climbing rocks. You are welcome, myah?

Alex Honnold climbs
with no rope and empty heart
soloing doesn't help

He wishes himself
to keep his climbing girlfriend
feeling it's soon over

Honnold must not cry
Must utilize crushing grip
On small pad pocket

Honnold climbs through crux
Aroused that he did not fall
yet sad way to van

Oh rainbow corners
why have you not filled my heart
I'll just go crush more

Aleks,

You write in a way that brings tears to my eyes. So simple, yet so beautiful. You are a true literary giant.

When is your book going to be available? Can I pre-order?

I group all climbing into the term mountaineering.

I think most people would agree that mountaineering includes rock climbing.

My problem with this writing is more the use of poor vocabulary.

Same problem most reviewers had with this book...

christoph benells wrote:I group all climbing into the term mountaineering. I think most people would agree that mountaineering includes rock climbing. My problem with this writing is more the use of poor vocabulary. Same problem most reviewers had with this book...

Mountaineering is a much more exciting thing to write about. All that festering in tents builds better writers too.

I'd read this book more to get in the headspace of such an enigmatic figure. I did find that brief excerpt pretty stirring on the free solo aspect but otherwise unengaging. It's great he's going for it though, maybe he'll hone his style.

below is a true example of amazing mountaineering literature

Aleks Zebastian wrote: Climbing friend, I share with you amazing literature of the climbing rocks. You are welcome, myah? Alex Honnold climbs with no rope and empty heart soloing doesn't help He wishes himself to keep his climbing girlfriend feeling it's soon over Honnold must not cry Must utilize crushing grip On small pad pocket Honnold climbs through crux Aroused that he did not fall yet sad way to van Oh rainbow corners why have you not filled my heart I'll just go crush more

Good read, thanks for posting!

Tim Lutz wrote: Funny, I categorize mountaineering under steep hiking.

That's a bit passive aggressive a label. Do I want to get into mountaineering? Hell to the no! But at least give it some respect, there is a reason you are being light and clambering around on dry rocks for instagram photos while they are up in full conditions with their pecker inverted into their abdominal cavity not to be seen until Spring.

erik wellborn wrote:Relationship angst never helped my climbing abilities. Just my drinking abilities.

YES!

"Some people might call this crazy. I prefer to think of it as badass". Amen brother!

Tim Lutz wrote: Funny, I categorize mountaineering under steep hiking.

so what would you call...say...supercanaleta on fitzroy?

Hmm. If you do not like Honnold's writing in this excerpt, that's probably OK, as it's most likely the work of a Ghost Writer.

Unfortunately, I won't be able to get the 5 minutes back I spent reading this excerpt. Stacey, go find the dude in Dallas - anything is more exciting that Mr. Honnlove.

Yo Kirby,

That was actually pretty funny - good one :p

Tim Lutz wrote:I used the label as a response to rock climbing being a sub-category of mountaineering. I have respect for those that choose to suffer in danger, but rock climbing is the much bigger sport these days.

Golf is bigger still

Nick Crews wrote:Is a health insurance provider one of Alex Honnold's sponsors? That would be too rich.

Yeah. He did a commercial shoot with them in SanFran or something where he freesoloed up some apartment building or something, climbed up the brick facade. I remember watching it and thinking that it was definitely not built to handle that kind of weight.

Edit: here it is: youtu.be/B76ysGuyi7M?t=187

Awesome! I've often wondered about the "real" Alex. This is great stuff.