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Katana lace sizing

Original Post
KenH307 · · Laramie, WY · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 25

I'm looking for some sizing advice on a pair of Katana Lace. I wear a 42.5 in TC Pros with an almost totally toes flat fit. My street shoe is about 44. I was thinking probably a 42 for the Katana. Thoughts?
Thanks in advance.

Jay Eggleston · · Denver · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 21,381

My street shoe size is 44.5 and I have 41.5 Katanas.

Lothian Buss · · Durango, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 15

That's how I sized mine. 1/2 size down from snug but all day comfy tc pro fit. It was perfect. Wasn't happy about the near immediate sole delamination though.

alpinejason · · Minneapolis · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 176

I have a 43 TC pro. At some point I've had the Katana lace in all sizes from 41.5 to 43. I think the sweet spot is 1/2 to 1 size down from my TC which are not quite an 'all day' shoe. The cost/benefit of tight 41.5s don't do it for me anymore.

PM if you decided on a 42.5, I have a brand new pair.

Edit: Also have a used pair of 42 I'd probably sell as well.

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,203

Ha, I went through all this recently. I wear 40.5 in TC Pros and 40.5 in the Katana Lace. I did try the 40s and found them to be just too tight. The 40.5 are tight but with a bit more wear they should be comfortably.

DWF 3 · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 186

My katanas are the same size as my TCs (39). The TCs are all day comfortable but the katanas are a tight performance fit good for only about a pitch or so. I'll probably get a second pair of katanas 1/2 size up for longer edging days.

Justin G88 · · Leavenworth · Joined May 2015 · Points: 230

I wear a 42 in my approach shoe (la Sportiva Boulder X) and went with the katana lace at a 41 and couldn't hack it, my toes would be screaming after a few pitches, than I upsized to a 41.5 and now I love them. I can wear them all day sport climbing and they feel great.

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

At a given size, how does the fit compare? I know that it is approximately the same last, so do they fit about the same at a given size? I have a 39.5 for my "performance" TCs (toes fairly curled) and a 40 for my "comfort" TC (toes almost flat). If I got a 39.5 KL, should I expect similar fit/comfort/performance attributes to my 39.5 TCs?

For reference, in running shoes I wear a 42.5 (9.5). I like my climbing shoes pretty tight. I take my shoes off between pitches...

Lothian Buss · · Durango, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 15

Length to the tip of the big toe is about the same, the katana toe box is narrower with more vertical space to curl you little toes into. Gives a stronger outside edge imo, will feel tighter but not shorter.

Chris Massey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 5

I am 45 in street shoe, and currently wearing 44 in both TC Pros and Katana Lace. The fit seems to be pretty close. I am on like my 4th or 5th pair of Katana LU's and love them. But I am just about to give up on them due to the previously mentioned sole delamination. They just do not hold up for me long enough.

S. Neoh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 35

Size 7 street shoe, size 38.5 Katana Lace. Comfortable for cragging but not all-day, multi-pitch climbing.

Kyle Goupil · · Salt Lake City · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 905

I wear a street size of 10.5 and wear a 42.5 in the katana lace. this is my favorite shoe and 42.5 is the perfect size for me once they are broken in.

KenH307 · · Laramie, WY · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 25

Thanks for all the input. I think I'll give it a shot in my TC Pro size. Worst case scenario: I have a pair of thin crack shoes!

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125
JCM wrote:At a given size, how does the fit compare? I know that it is approximately the same last, so do they fit about the same at a given size?
No...the TC Pro sized the same as KL would fit similar only for their intended applications: TC for long trad & KL for more sport/bouldering...hey will not be the same length. If you intend to use both for performance crack+face climbing, KL would need to be 0.5-1 euro size larger than TC Pro.
Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

I wear size 46 or 12 boots and runners. I tried a pair of Katanas that were 44s. They became so painful, although I took them off every lap I couldn't wear them. I broke in a pair of 43.5 TCs and even rocked a pair of 43 Muira VS. My new Muira VS are 44.5. I wanted the Katanas but can't do narrow I guess.

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
reboot wrote: No...the TC Pro sized the same as KL would fit similar only for their intended applications: TC for long trad & KL for more sport/bouldering...hey will not be the same length. If you intend to use both for performance crack+face climbing, KL would need to be 0.5-1 euro size larger than TC Pro.
Thanks reboot. I figured you'd have good input on this question. I'll need to give some thought as to which would be a better addition to the shoe quiver- a face-oriented KL or a crack-oriented KL. Decisions, decisions. No trips to the Creek (or Moonlight...) in the near future, so it would mostly be an Index/Squamish granite shoe. Basically looking to bridge the gap between the Testarossas and the TCs in the current quiver. Miuras (lace) have filled that niche for a while for me, but I'm fed up with how quickly the midsole breaks down on those and the stiffness and edging ability fades. Seems like the KL is a good replacement, as something pointier than the TCs but still pretty stiff. Those new 5.10 Verdons sound interesting too... Maybe I can find a shop that carries the KLs and/or Verdons sometime in the next few months. The in-store shoe selections in Seattle are pitiful compared to the Front Range.

Sorry, just thinking out loud here...
Walter Galli · · Las vegas · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 2,247

I use to go 1,5 size down, very uncomfortable but sticky on small feet holds, plus is all about what are you using your climbing shoes for, example- short routes and Boulder smaller tighter shoes - long walls and big routes, larger shoes for comfort ability, in average I can't keep my shoes on more than 20 minutes.

Walter Galli · · Las vegas · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 2,247
Kyle Goupil wrote:I wear a street size of 10.5 and wear a 42.5 in the katana lace. this is my favorite shoe and 42.5 is the perfect size for me once they are broken in.
Yep you got a good point here, the shoes are actually getting more comfy after are braking in, they melt around the foot better after some time lets say 3 to 4 climbing sessions and they will loose the tightness a bit.
Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252
Bill Kirby wrote: I wear size 46 or 12 boots and runners. I tried a pair of Katanas that were 44s. They became so painful, although I took them off every lap I couldn't wear them. I broke in a pair of 43.5 TCs and even rocked a pair of 43 Muira VS. My new Muira VS are 44.5. I wanted the Katanas but can't do narrow I guess.
Same thing happened to me. Just finally got a bigger pair (they were completely out of stock in North America!) and I freaking love them. The key is NOT downsizing aggressively, as the P3 and overall stiffness put a lot of pressure on your toes and the shoes don't stretch much. The trade-off, I discovered, is that you can size up and keep your toes relatively flat and still get killer edging due to the slight downturn. I actually took them bouldering and they performed surprisingly well considering the fact that they were so comfortable, I never took them off the entire session...! I wear size 12 1/2-13 street (I think actually 46.5), and 45.5 is perfect for me. I wear 45s in the Miuras and Moccs and could maybe get away with it in the KL if I was going for a super aggressive feel, but that wasn't what I was looking for in the shoe.
bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

few points

- the katana lace are synthetic uppers, there will be a bit of stretch, but not as much as say miuras

- the sizing for me is basically the same as the katana velcro ... which is 1/2 larger than the miuras for me ... they shouldnt feel painful, just snug

- for squamish you dont want to downsize very much as you still need to climb cracks/slabs with em on a multi ... even at "normal" sizing the P3 allows you to do quite well on face climbs

- they take resoles VERY well, keeping a decent amount of stiffness and because they dont stretch too much ... ship em off for resole well before the rand wears through

;)

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
bearbreeder wrote: the sizing for me is basically the same as the katana velcro ... which is 1/2 larger than the miuras for me ...
Following up on this...

How does the fit (not just the sizing, but also the shape/fit) compare between the Katana lace versus velcro? No local shops in Seattle seem to carry the lace, but there is a shop that carries the velcro. How good a fit/sizing proxy would the Velcro be for the lace? Obviously the downturn and the performance characteristics will be very different, but what about the last/heel shape? Wider/narrower toebox, etc? Larger/smaller at a given size? Any signficiant fit differences to be aware to when trying on the velcros in order to size for the laces?
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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