Type: Sport
FA: Jay Golden and Bradley White
Page Views: 5,608 total · 27/month
Shared By: Ladd Raine on May 15, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Climb Know Ethics 5.10d clip the anchors with an extendable and continue out the obvious overhanging crack using undercling beta. A hard move will let you get in a good position to pull the bulge to gain sweet fingerlock and a 5.8 traverse to the anchors wayyy over left.

Update: A direct finish has been added (without changing anything about the original route) which makes it convenient to lower back down Know Ethics and clean your draws on the lower. After pulling the strenuous crux roof crack clip an original bolt out left then head up into the roof above. Clip one more bolt and pull a few more steep moves to an anchor just below the lip of the huge birch tree ledge. It is easiest to climb a little left at the last bolt and then back right. Climb all the way to the lip for the full effect but the anchor may be clipped before doing the last move. The route has been cleaned of obvious loose rock but as with any new route be careful and aware of anything that might be a hazard. 

Bring a 60m rope!

Location Suggest change

Above Know Ethics 5.10d, obvious overhanging crack.

Protection Suggest change

4 or 5 bolts to anchor. It is good to use lockers on the bolts on the traverse after the roof as the draws seem to occasionally unclip from the bolt after the leader passes, subjecting the second to a potential rope cutting pendelum.

Photos

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