Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 2,425 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Guy H. on Jun 14, 2008 |
Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
Bingham describes this as "one of the best crack pitches in the park". With a description like that, I had to give it a try. It is worth the effort, if you are in the area.
This climb liebacks an incredible dihedral with multiple stepped roofs. The route is very pumpy for the grade and will eat .5 and .75 camalots.
The anchor situation is a little funky on this climb. There is a 2 bolt anchor in the middle of the slab, but no clear way to reach it. You could continue to the top of the formation, but the slabs above are loose and runout. The best option is to step to the left and rap off a chicken head. Bring some extra webbing just in case.
This climb liebacks an incredible dihedral with multiple stepped roofs. The route is very pumpy for the grade and will eat .5 and .75 camalots.
The anchor situation is a little funky on this climb. There is a 2 bolt anchor in the middle of the slab, but no clear way to reach it. You could continue to the top of the formation, but the slabs above are loose and runout. The best option is to step to the left and rap off a chicken head. Bring some extra webbing just in case.
6 Comments