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Looking for a Nano Puffy Hooded Belay Jacket.

rocknice2 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,847
Nick Drake wrote: Second that, the nuclei is a great belay jacket for rock use. I like that it's not stitched through anywhere, helps it stay warmer in higher winds. I'm 5'8" and around 165, it's nice to find something that isn't cut like a garbage bag.
Are you able to ease it over your harness easily. What size do you have?

To the other Nick: I got the BD belay stance parka. Great parka, very roomy with a nice hood. It's really warm, great for cold weather ice climbing. It's thicker than the DAS.
FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

I returned a Piton Hoody. No more "slim fit" items for me from Patagonia. It's too bad - I really like my old R1, but now they only come in slim fit. Are you listening, Patagonia?

Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180
FrankPS wrote:I returned a Piton Hoody. No more "slim fit" items for me from Patagonia. It's too bad - I really like my old R1, but now they only come in slim fit. Are you listening, Patagonia?
They are, I've been complaining about climbing clothes tailored for couch potatoes. Its nice that Patagonia finally took my feedback to heart.
Gavin W · · NW WA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 181

I bought a Thermoball Hoodie last year, and returned it because it was too loose for me (for reference I'm 6'1", 165#, and I was able to grab it near my bellybutton and pull it out nearly a foot when it was zipped up).
Sounds like that fits your needs well.

Kyle Tarry · · Portland, OR · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 528
rocknice2 wrote: Yeah the micro puff has 100gr/m2 insulation. I already own a great jacket in that warmth. Thanks for the offer.
Some of the confusion may be due to the title of this thread; "looking for a Micro Puffy..." Except, you don't want a Micro Puff. Perhaps consider re-titling...
rocknice2 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,847
Kyle Tarry wrote: Some of the confusion may be due to the title of this thread; "looking for a Micro Puffy..." Except, you don't want a Micro Puff. Perhaps consider re-titling...
Doh! Thanks.
mattm · · TX · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,885

I've subscribed to the bearbreeder philosophy when it comes to outerwear, esp Primaloft pieces which are nearly a "commodity" these days with EVERYONE making their version of the nano puff. By them cheap and stack them deep. Off season you can get top-of-line at 50% off (or more).

RAB, Arcteryx and (apparently) Pata tend towards the slim(er) side of fit. I like the athletic cut for many things but yes, it can be a bit snug in the chest at times. I wear a Large in pretty much all tops (save for weird one offs like Montane) I'm 6', 195, 43in chest, 35 sleeve and 32" pants. Right now, I think the best fitting stuff for me is made by BD. They really seem to have targeted the wide shoulders, long arms, inverted triangle build rather than the flag pole climber build. I've been impressed with much of their line that I've tried or or purchased outright. In particular, they tend to be cut longer an extend further down below your waist than similar pieces that stop right at the belt line.

I'll be the first to tell you that their retail is $$$ but you can nearly always find sales that make them solid choices. The only other caveat is they do bring in Primaloft SILVER into their line vs all Primaloft GOLD so value wise you might not be as excited. Personally, I don't think BD is clueless and just putting out cheapo "me too" puffys in ECO or Silver to save $$ as some cynics have suggested. I suspect that it's a conscious choice for more durability / loft vs the need for utmost compression and lightness. Patagonia makes similar choices with their garments as well. I've read that some people don't like BD's hood design but can't comment on that as I personally prefer jackets over hooded pieces. Take a look at the Access LT and Access options since you like the Stance already.

RafalA · · Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 20

Are you opposed to breathable side panels? I use the OR Cathode Hoody for what you describe. It's 60g/m Primaloft, has a looser cut through the torso and the hood actually fits over helmets. It does have Polartec side panels for breathability but I only notice this as a detriment in really high winds.

The Nuclei (FL, now) also fits this brief but it is a slimmer cut and won't accommodate a harness full of gear, though it will go over a harness quite easily.

Nick Drake · · Kent, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 651
rocknice2 wrote: Are you able to ease it over your harness easily. What size do you have? To the other Nick: I got the BD belay stance parka. Great parka, very roomy with a nice hood. It's really warm, great for cold weather ice climbing. It's thicker than the DAS.

A size would have helped huh? :) I have a medium. It fits over my harness with a small amount of gear ok, but without a two way zipper I find it rides up above my butt after belaying for a while. I have a big ass though and this is a problem with the cut of every brand jacket I've tried on in the 60gm range.

I will also say it's the warmest in the category also, with 80gm insulation in the body. All that at something ridiculous like 11 ounces. It was warm enough that I slept with it on and no bag on a climb in September.
Gavin W · · NW WA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 181

Also, the MEC Uplink Hoody is fairly slim-fitting, but is sewn in a way that it has tons of stretch so you can put it over other layers.

AlpineIce · · Upstate, NY · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 255

I know you said you wanted a 60g piece, but I have a Rab Generator Alpine for sale that's in new condition. 100g PrimaLoft Gold in the torso and 60g PrimaLoft Gold in the arms and hood.

It has a two-way zipper and is purpose-built for belaying. Best hood I've seen in a long time. Men's large, red. Pertex Endurance for the exterior and Pertex Quantum inside. $95

Rab

RafalA · · Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 20

I just got a Mountain Hardwear Thermostatic jacket and it's sized quite loose - 60g/m Q.Elite insulation, no stretchy panels, my medium definitely feels roomier than similar pieces. My first thought was "MH version of the Nano Puff."

rocknice2 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,847

That MH Thermostatic looks really nice. I just received my TNF Thermoball hoodie I ordered. Also a very nice product and a relatively relaxed fit. Haven't had a chance to try it with a harness on but its looking good so far.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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