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Routes in Spring Creek
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A Better Deal S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Brutal Edge, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jaccard Hand-O-Lin T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Left Deal, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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One Messiah T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Raw Deal, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Restoration of American Liberty T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rigel's Wall T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Right Deal, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | the professor and Rigel |
| Page Views: | 2,441 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | the professor on Oct 20, 2015 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
Pitch 1 (The Flake, 50 feet)
Stick clip the bolt and mantle. Climb a flake crack, then a short flare. Belay at a two bolt belay under a flaring roof. 5.10
Pitch 2 (Falling Petal, 75 feet))
Chimney up to the roof. Exit via a hand crack. Continue up the crack to a belay ledge with bush and two bolt station. 5.10
Pitch 3 (The Chimney, 50 feet)
Walk a few feet inside a clean and classic chimney. Climb the chimney, following a thin crack for pro. Make a couple of mantles that end at a two bolt station. 5.8
Pitch 4 (Freight Train Flare, 75 feet))
Stem up and past the roof using the wide-hands crack. Continue up the overhanging flare on perfect rock (crux). The angle and climbing ease as the rock becomes sandy near the two bolt anchor. 5.10+
Pitch 5 (Optional Scramble, 30 feet)
It is a short scramble to either the top of the cliff or a ledge overlooking the canyon (belay recommended). Downclimb back to the anchor atop pitch 4.
Descent
One 60m rope will get you down. Rappel each of pitches 4 and 3. Walk back to the anchor atop pitch 2. Rappel straight down to a lower ledge with large bush and two bolt station. Rappel from here to the ground.
Stick clip the bolt and mantle. Climb a flake crack, then a short flare. Belay at a two bolt belay under a flaring roof. 5.10
Pitch 2 (Falling Petal, 75 feet))
Chimney up to the roof. Exit via a hand crack. Continue up the crack to a belay ledge with bush and two bolt station. 5.10
Pitch 3 (The Chimney, 50 feet)
Walk a few feet inside a clean and classic chimney. Climb the chimney, following a thin crack for pro. Make a couple of mantles that end at a two bolt station. 5.8
Pitch 4 (Freight Train Flare, 75 feet))
Stem up and past the roof using the wide-hands crack. Continue up the overhanging flare on perfect rock (crux). The angle and climbing ease as the rock becomes sandy near the two bolt anchor. 5.10+
Pitch 5 (Optional Scramble, 30 feet)
It is a short scramble to either the top of the cliff or a ledge overlooking the canyon (belay recommended). Downclimb back to the anchor atop pitch 4.
Descent
One 60m rope will get you down. Rappel each of pitches 4 and 3. Walk back to the anchor atop pitch 2. Rappel straight down to a lower ledge with large bush and two bolt station. Rappel from here to the ground.
Location
The crag and route start should be obvious from the overview photo.
As of 2015 there is no climbers path from the Spring Creek wash to the base of the climb. This necessitates a 10 minute bushwhack up the hill.
Update from 2020: hike from the start of the narrows, through the riparian zone full of vegetation, until the past the springs (that form the namesake of the canyon). The trail will enter the now dry wash full of whitish stones for about 40 meters. Where the trail exits the wash up a short incline, look on the left for a cairn which now marks the start of the faint ascent path. The path leads to a rock rib and through a tunnel in that rib. Continue up the obvious steep, dry gully/wash to the base of the cliff, then traverse down (left) about 12 meters to the belay spot.
As of 2015 there is no climbers path from the Spring Creek wash to the base of the climb. This necessitates a 10 minute bushwhack up the hill.
Update from 2020: hike from the start of the narrows, through the riparian zone full of vegetation, until the past the springs (that form the namesake of the canyon). The trail will enter the now dry wash full of whitish stones for about 40 meters. Where the trail exits the wash up a short incline, look on the left for a cairn which now marks the start of the faint ascent path. The path leads to a rock rib and through a tunnel in that rib. Continue up the obvious steep, dry gully/wash to the base of the cliff, then traverse down (left) about 12 meters to the belay spot.
Photos
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