The Devils Lake top rope cluster Fu&k thread...

What is a belay

Chris treggE wrote:What is a belay

exactly

Not sure if it is static or not, but it took them like 10 minutes to get the rope untangled.

James M Schroeder wrote:Last Saturday saw yet another Brinton's Crack TR setup with static line running back to a tree across the trail. Despite comments from multiple bystanders (myself included), the situation was not rectified. The excuse was, "I forgot my cams." Which is really irrelevant, since there are plenty of giant blocks to tie off to instead. The question I have, is what do we, as a community, do about this? Several people talked to the offender, and nothing came of it but excuses. The thing is, there is no excuse, it's wrong and completely unnecessary.

The Park has rules to cover this, climbers are not allowed to have webbing or ropes across the trails or interfere with hikes, tell them you will call the ranger and they will be give them a FINE, for blocking the trail.

jhn payne wrote: Someone posts a couple pictures of jacked anchors and suddenly everyone in the Midwest is incompetent at anchor building? Been building anchors for thirty years here in the Midwest, Colorado and elsewhere, anchor building is my art, I'm insulted.

I agree with John, there MORONS, everywhere, the worst top rope anchor ever herd of was in Colorado, ice climber lead W4/5 route, in Vail, I think it was the Fang, set top rope was lower down to the ground, then two partners top roped the route, then the leader top roped the climb and fell the anchor failed, the rope sawed thru webbing, he fell about 80ft,they where top roping thru the WEBBING, ONLY NO BINERS, he was experienced climber, so they say, never seen or herd of, anyone top roping thru WEBBING ONLY at DL. or the Midwest,
He went on Good Morning America, WFT

Dylan B. wrote: Show me a fuckin' picture.

you crack my shit up!

Anyone see an jive ass anchors this weekend? I heard a rumor P-R-O Climber Blake Herrington set up something pretty suspect on Congrats. But that's just a rumor with no documented evidence ;)

Pix or it didn't happen

Mike Robinson wrote:Anyone see an jive ass anchors this weekend? I heard a rumor P-R-O Climber Blake Herrington set up something pretty suspect on Congrats. But that's just a rumor with no documented evidence ;) Pix or it didn't happen

I heard he needed to sacrifice some jive-ass cord to make it happen.

Burt Lindquist wrote:

Hey Burt, This might have been us. Was this at Bill's Buttress? The rope was on Cheetah. And yes, we were indeed trying to bait the TR pundits. Haha! good to know we made it to the cluster Fu&k thread. :)

Bizarre top rope rigs are a long tradition at the lake. This thread reminded me of some experiments the DLFA Safety Committee conducted in the CCC parking lot in September 1984. The full documentation is at flic.kr/s/aHskjpuG35

Professors Groth, Wenzel, and Schmitt were the Principal Investigators. No NSF funding.

Gives new weight to the phrase "it'll stop a truck!" Good to see some Scholars take these things seriously. The UIAA and their silly kilonewtons. The correct unit of measurement is clearly the "gmc".

Doug Hemken wrote:Gives new weight to the phrase "it'll stop a truck!" Good to see some Scholars take these things seriously. The UIAA and their silly kilonewtons. The correct unit of measurement is clearly the "gmc".

Important to have the can of Old Milwaukee for scale.

Boy Scouts setting anchors..... Two of their three nuts moved as the blocks they were placed in where loose. The third piece was "ok". I had to say something as it lead to one of the leaders took the gear down.

jon jugenheimer wrote:Boy Scouts setting anchors..... Two of their three nuts moved as the blocks they were placed in where loose. The third but was "ok". I had to say something a lucky one of the leaders took the gear down.

its hard to see the actual nut in the pic but I think I'd whip on that as long as the nut was set well and it wasnt my stopper.

Whipping while leading on your single top piece and setting up a TR with a group of kids that you are responsible for are two different things.

T Roper wrote: its hard to see the actual nut ...

sure but it's plain to see that the block is completely detached. I would never place a peice in that for any reason. In fact I'd consider taking same tools out there and removing it.

please don't remove the block.

jon jugenheimer wrote:please don't remove the block.

I don't live in the midwest. your guys problem not mine.

Removing every loose block near the clifftop at DL would be a virtually Sisyphean task. Better to educate than to sanitize.

Im a big fan of removing hazards but again it not my area.