New Route Ethics

eli poss wrote: somebody give this guy a medal.

And which side are you on??

Ah ben, long time no talk.
Small update on the crag, in light of the whole situation I put up a new aid line: the poop hole lope hole, A2. I'll be adding it to the proj soon!

I usually straddle the middle, although I probably lean further to the crusty old southern ethics. This route pissed me off:

It's a bolted crack with plenty of gear in northern arizona

Cool, Ryan. I'm working a girdle traverse of the sun wall at Sandrock. I'm gonna name it the Sam Special. 50 bolts. None donated by the SCC.

UncleBen wrote:Cool, Ryan. I'm working a girdle traverse of the sun walk at sandrick. I'm gonna name it the Sam Special.

Awesome! You will probably need to add about 12 bolts though.

Do it!
I heard Sam is getting really, really fat!

any of y'all ever attempted the roof project at T-wall on Southern Express? There's definitely a good campfire story 'round here.

eli poss wrote:I usually straddle the middle, although I probably lean further to the crusty old southern ethics. This route pissed me off: It's a bolted crack with plenty of gear in northern arizona

Why the hell did you clip the bolts then? Stand up for your morals, or forever leave them!! ;)

eli poss wrote:any of y'all ever attempted the roof project at T-wall on Southern Express? There's definitely a good campfire story 'round here.

I been on nearly every roof there. And failed most times. That's my cred. Failure. Although I pull a mean slab move from time to time.

Micah Klesick wrote: Why the hell did you clip the bolts then? Stand up for your morals, or forever leave them!! ;)

That isn't me. I didn't climb it because I didn't have the small gear and I refuse to clip bolts on a crack. I did, however, lead another one of the bolted cracks there on gear.

Hurrah.

UncleBen wrote: Although I pull a mean slab move from time to time.

I hear there's a good one on the Volunteer Wall. You should check it out.

UncleBen wrote: I been on nearly every roof there. And failed most times. That's my cred. Failure. Although I pull a mean slab move from time to time.

I know how you feel. on Guardian angel I flailed hard on the roof crux and then cruised the upper slab crux no problem. The southern roof project looks insane, though. For me, it looks like 3 body lengths of roof pulling. Some crazy shit right there.

A 5.9 roof?

Buhhh, I thought we were talking hand drilling......???

UncleBen wrote:Sam. That's some funny stuff. But you gotta name other names...talk about Shannon too much and you gonna get some attention. Good that you've moved. And that yer buddy, Jeb, ran like a scalded dog. Hope the cooler weather treats you better. Too hot here for you?

That is pretty funny...I don't recall a sense of humor....musta found it out west.

Shannon is everyone's favorite whipping boy...on the internet. Face to face though...fight or flight kicks in...and "poof"...

...they gone.

eli poss wrote:any of y'all ever attempted the roof project at T-wall on Southern Express? There's definitely a good campfire story 'round here.

Laban Swafford FA'ed this route in the summer of 2014. Just to clarify, you used the word "project." Your comments also show that very few, if none, of you actually tried the route to know why there are bolts on it. Thanks for admitting your ignorance openly. Don't talk about routes you have never been on. Don't talk about ethics of routes you will never send. Nathaniel Walker put the bolts in. If you have ever climbed with him or seen what he does (all gear ascents of poweropolis, tamper... must I go on) then you would understand.

really? What did it go at? Was it clean or did it get bolted?

who was that wiener that called Ben a asshole at that SCC grumble fest like 5 months ago.

eli poss wrote:I usually straddle the middle, although I probably lean further to the crusty old southern ethics. This route pissed me off: It's a bolted crack with plenty of gear in northern arizona

HA!!!! you went to Jack's Canyon and got pissed off about a bolted crack. That's hilarious! You must have been seeking out places and things to piss you off. HA! HA!

However, this troll did bring out the geeks didn't it?