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Top Rope Tuesdays

Original Post
Laronicus Lehmanold · · Salt Lake, UT · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 290

Our crew started a weekly routine to top rope routes at our limits on Tuesday. We try to climb routes 5.10a or easier to get to a 5.10d-5.11b. What routes do you know of that we can do this on?

Or, what routes from 5.10d-5.11b do you know that we can top rope?

Thank you!

Jay Eggleston · · Denver · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 21,326

Where?

Mike Marmar · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 67

Sport only? If not:

Gordon's direct after leading Gordon's hangover.
Disco chicken after leading disco duck
Neuromancer after climbing the first pitch of Pentapitch
Lesbian Seagulls after climbing Endless Torment (10b)
Equipment overhang after climbing Satan's corner (requires a bit of a funky traversing rappel to get to the anchors)
Fortress after Fire and Brimstone
John Doe 2 after Total X

Eric Chabot · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 45

bongeater

NickO · · West Slope · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 30

10c but Goodros
10d Stem the Tide after leading Satans Corner
The roof problem route just left of Hollow Man

Laronicus Lehmanold · · Salt Lake, UT · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 290

Sport or trad.

We live in and around salt lake proper so the Wasatch range- mainly cottonwoods and Ferguson canyon. Thank you!

Laronicus Lehmanold · · Salt Lake, UT · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 290

Oh, and bongeater is a current project! That route is so awesome! :)

Micah Klesick · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 3,971

Just a thought, take it or leave it. Top roping routes leads to bad form, and a bad lead head. You're better off trying to lead those routes at your limit, and work them that way. It will develop better climbing skills, and a much better lead head. And it's much more rewarding IMO. But that's just me. I'd rather lead a route than TR it in almost every case, because TR'ing a route just takes most of the enjoyment, excitement and challenge out of it.

Mike Marmar · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 67

I think TR-ing trad routes well above your limit can be useful. It can show you what you are capable of physically, and potentially reveal mental blocks that may be preventing you from getting there on lead. TR-ing a few 11s this summer convinced me to push into the 10+/11- range on lead with good results.

Laronicus Lehmanold · · Salt Lake, UT · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 290
Micah Klesick wrote:Just a thought, take it or leave it.....
Thank you for your opinion. I do not want this thread to become a debate on whether or not this is a good idea. Please post routes, not opinions. Thank you.
RangerJ · · Denver, CO · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 65
Laron Lemon wrote:Sport or trad. We live in and around salt lake proper so the Wasatch range- mainly cottonwoods and Ferguson canyon. Thank you!
Does it really make a difference if it is Sport or Trad if you are TRing?
Laronicus Lehmanold · · Salt Lake, UT · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 290
JBennett wrote: Does it really make a difference if it is Sport or Trad if you are TRing?
With most routes that share chains with those that are more difficult you usually have to lead one first.

e.g Lead a trad 5.8 to chains for a 5.10d sport/trad
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Sport Climbing
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