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Pudgy Gumbies
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13
Avg: 3.6 from 31
votes
Routes in Pentapitch Area
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Dike from Hell T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Endless Torment T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flashdance T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Ginseng T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Jackalope T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Japanese Terraces T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lesbian Seagulls S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Littlefoot T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Loch Ness Monster T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Neuromancer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Nubbins Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Nubbins to Nowhere T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nuke the Whales T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Pearls Before Swine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pentapass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pentapitch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pudgy Gumbies T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Sasquatch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 85 ft (26 m) |
| FA: | Merrill Bitter, John Higgens, 1983 |
| Page Views: | 5,049 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Past User on Aug 31, 2007 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Access Issue: Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse.
Details
Little Cottonwood Access Update
Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCA saltlakeclimbers.org has a positive relationship with the landowner.
The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek.
Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination.
Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCA saltlakeclimbers.org has a positive relationship with the landowner.
The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek.
Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination.
Description
A lesson in offset balance! This peculiar testpiece packs maximal climbing into 80 leaning feet. One of my favorite LCC cracks.
Links up a series of left-leaning cracks on a giant orangeish leaning rectangle. Follow the narrow left trending lieback ramp for the first 35 feet (crux) until the awesome jamming begins. The climb has always seemed a little dirty and the lichen can stay moist after a rain- it is not often it is climbed. It is fully worthy of your time. Treat it as a little destination route.
The narrow left trending lieback ramp is very balancey- there is very little in the way of secure stances- and it can be quite hard to blindly fiddle in reliable small gear here. Aside from a few key pods where C3's dominate, micro nuts and micro cams artfully placed will suffice, but nothing really feels super confidence inspiring. Also, due to the leaning nature of the climb, you are never far off the ground- especially the bottom half- it feels like it climbs more sideways than up. Once you gain the upper-half you can relax a bit with ample straight forward gear placements.
I'd suggest a cush cam rack of triples from purple C3 to big fingers(.5 camalot/ orange metolius), and then doubles to a #1 camalot size. Most of the finger sized pieces will be used on the second half of the climb. Save some tips sizes for the last moves. Bring a usual number of draws and slings.
An improved belay stance now exists with some cord and equalized fixed gear.
This route is difficult and possibly a touch dangerous to attempt to clean while lowering/rappelling so you should just have your second clean it on toprope.
Links up a series of left-leaning cracks on a giant orangeish leaning rectangle. Follow the narrow left trending lieback ramp for the first 35 feet (crux) until the awesome jamming begins. The climb has always seemed a little dirty and the lichen can stay moist after a rain- it is not often it is climbed. It is fully worthy of your time. Treat it as a little destination route.
The narrow left trending lieback ramp is very balancey- there is very little in the way of secure stances- and it can be quite hard to blindly fiddle in reliable small gear here. Aside from a few key pods where C3's dominate, micro nuts and micro cams artfully placed will suffice, but nothing really feels super confidence inspiring. Also, due to the leaning nature of the climb, you are never far off the ground- especially the bottom half- it feels like it climbs more sideways than up. Once you gain the upper-half you can relax a bit with ample straight forward gear placements.
I'd suggest a cush cam rack of triples from purple C3 to big fingers(.5 camalot/ orange metolius), and then doubles to a #1 camalot size. Most of the finger sized pieces will be used on the second half of the climb. Save some tips sizes for the last moves. Bring a usual number of draws and slings.
An improved belay stance now exists with some cord and equalized fixed gear.
This route is difficult and possibly a touch dangerous to attempt to clean while lowering/rappelling so you should just have your second clean it on toprope.
Protection
- Micro nuts
- Small nuts
- Purple TCU
- Doubles from blue TCU until red #1 Camalot.
- Many runners/draws
- 60 meter rope gets you up and down.
Quickclips and anchor bolts installed Sept 28th, 2008.
Location
Approach by climbing Endless Torment, and then execute some 3rd class dirt scrambling up ramps to the right, and then back left for about 100 vertical feet.
Alternatively you can climb the first couple of pitches up to the nice ledge below the final Pentapitch headwall slab and scramble down and to the east and around some corners (4th class).
There is a nice tree to anchor into for the belay, and you know you are there when you see the left-leaning thin cracks and a pin about 25 feet up.
Alternatively you can climb the first couple of pitches up to the nice ledge below the final Pentapitch headwall slab and scramble down and to the east and around some corners (4th class).
There is a nice tree to anchor into for the belay, and you know you are there when you see the left-leaning thin cracks and a pin about 25 feet up.
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