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Routes in Valley Massif
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Been Hair Done That T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Best Man T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bill Steal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Bittersweet T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Dirty Joke, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Falcon's Lair T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fire Escape T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Hair of the Dog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hammer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hooker T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Internal Combustion T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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King of Coney Island T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Monkey Wrench T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Nail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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New Maps of Hell T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Powder Puff T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Quits T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Screw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Social Security Ran Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Soft Touch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sunny Day T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Surprise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tail Spin T V9 7C |
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Tea Grinder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tool Or Die T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Unknown Legend T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Zipper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | George Hurley, Jerry Sublett, c. 1965 |
| Page Views: | 2,911 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Funk on Jul 9, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
This is an often overlooked route on the north side of the Valley Massif that although is not a classic, is nonetheless worthwhile if youre in the area. On the north side of Valley Massif, about 50 feet right of the start of Hammer, approach by scrambling up a short, easy, hand crack moving back at the top into the left side the alcove. Ascend the face first using the hand crack on the left then switching to the one on the face. The face crack eventually leads to easy climbing on a series of big holds in a right facing corner. From here, either continue up the thin crack to the anchors on top of Tool or Die (harder?) or exit by stepping right over a wide crack and onto the west face of the Massif. The right exit seems to be easier, but there is no bolted anchor at the top and nothing but a great big crack splitting the face so make sure to have a few extra wide pieces (#4 Camalot or wider) to make an anchor. To reach the rap stations on the north side, traverse south 100 ft and than east 50 ft making your way around the ledges on the west and south face, staying roped up if necessary.
Location
On the north side of Valley Massif, about 50 feet right of the start of Hammer, approach by scrambling up a short, easy, hand crack moving back at the top into the left side the alcove.
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