Wichita Mountain Climbing Info Help?
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Wasn't sure where to post this but... I am pretty new to climbing. I have recently got into sport climbing at the gym, and obviously have done a lot of TR climbing in the gym and at the Wichitas. Basically, I have not got into trad (yet) and have no cams, only a set of nuts that i've never used. does anybody have any suggestions for top rope climbs (up to 5.11) that can be anchored with slings/webbing OR good sport routes at the Wichitas for a beginner? (max climb at a gym was 5.11 TR, and 5.10b lead) |
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Also, they don't have to be hard because I will be taking friends with me, but just want some options so I hopefully don't have to spend most of my two days next weekend looking for things that will work. And when the guide book or mtn project site says trad, sport rather than just sport, does that mean its a mix and I will have to have a trad rack for that route? |
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The easiest "sport climbs" are at Echo Dome. There is a 5.8 and a few 5.9s, all safely bolted. The anchors are bolted. I'm not sure if it's possible to access the top without leading, but it might be. |
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Lower Mount Scott has a couple classics (Mr. Clean, and High Anxiety) that can be TR by slinging a boulder. High Anxiety has rap bolts . They are two of my favorite climbs and have a super easy approach. |
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C., After being in the wichita's a couple of times i definitely see what you mean about being different than the gym :) What do you mean by slabby though? |
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Steve, I think lower mount Scott is a good place for you. You can reach the anchors for High Anxiety (5.7) from the top and there are a few harder climbs that you can set up top anchors using webbing. Repeat after me can be top roped and its a 10c with 3 roofs. I do think Mr Clean (5.8) can also be top roped. There is also an 11a sport route called layaway plan but i think the anchor bolts might be too far down the face to reach from the top. Have fun. The wichitas are a nice place in the fall. |
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I would suggest you head over to the Narrows. You can get to the Crazy Alice anchor atop Zoo Wall. Rap down to the ledge that connects to the Dihedral. Place a directional nut up top, to guard against the pendulum swing, and you can TR it at 5.6. Crazy Alice is one of the best 5.8's in the state. Another favorite is Dr. Coolhead at 10c/d, which is a gym climbers worst nightmare with it's seemingly holdless crux with small crystals feet. Don't overlook Squeeze Play either, climbing the pocketed face between Alice and the Dihedral at 5.9. You can also work Resurrection Factor at 11c. As you can see, this anchor can service several routes, but it gets lots of business too. Get out early, suggest you get to the gate at 8:45 to ensure no one sets up first. Also, this station is used by the rest of the wall as a rap. So please avoid occupying both sets of chains, make way for those rapping, and wear your brain buckets. It's called a Zoo for a reason. |
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RestoredSteve wrote: What do you mean by slabby though?The section at and just above the first bolt on Dr. Coolhead exemplifies what slab climbing is, IMO. Basically, no crack, no hands, most of the movement is on tiny micro crystals footholds that you can barely see. You'll learn :) Have fun. |
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^^^ exactly. Slab climbs are less than vertical and lack features. You rely on friction and tiny crimps. |
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I know it's the other site, but this line oozes slab climbing IMO Because that line, it looks impossible. |
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Thank you so much guys for your very speedy advice!!! I look forward to trying these out! |
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Meat slab is a good spot to get into slab climbing. No bolts and no fixed anchor, but the left most route is easy to free solo. You can set up a TR anchor. It is a great spot to warm up and hone your friction skills. |
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Guys, thanks so much for the help. Was at WMWR Friday and Saturday and had a blast. Other than time making anchors and hanging out, we were climbing! Started at zoo wall and did crazy Alice, the dihedral, and squeeze play a few times (I didn't end up getting to attempt Dr. Coolheaded because we wanted to hit some other areas, or maybe I was intimidated, or both lol). Then went over to dream boat Annie to check it out, built an anchor, but my partner didn't feel comfortable with the scramble down. It was kind of steep for a scramble if I was reading the guide book's directions right. I also couldn't see down to the base but looked like there isn't much place to stand and belay? Anybody have any experience on this one? I felt comfortable topping out, but I have never belayed from above and we couldn't find a good way for my partner to go up or down from the base. If anybody has any tips id love it as I thought those cracks looked super fun. |
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Craig Childre wrote:I know it's the other site, but this line oozes slab climbing IMO Tony on Master Race Because that line, it looks impossible.Where's the slab in that picture? |
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For Dream Boat, I've never scrambled down. We always just rapped off the anchor, which is a little tricky, but far better than a scramble. The Belay stance below has plenty of room. |