Mountain Project Logo

Wichita Mountain Climbing Info Help?

Original Post
RestoredSteve · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 0

Wasn't sure where to post this but... I am pretty new to climbing. I have recently got into sport climbing at the gym, and obviously have done a lot of TR climbing in the gym and at the Wichitas. Basically, I have not got into trad (yet) and have no cams, only a set of nuts that i've never used. does anybody have any suggestions for top rope climbs (up to 5.11) that can be anchored with slings/webbing OR good sport routes at the Wichitas for a beginner? (max climb at a gym was 5.11 TR, and 5.10b lead)

RestoredSteve · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 0

Also, they don't have to be hard because I will be taking friends with me, but just want some options so I hopefully don't have to spend most of my two days next weekend looking for things that will work. And when the guide book or mtn project site says trad, sport rather than just sport, does that mean its a mix and I will have to have a trad rack for that route?

Creed Archibald · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,016

The easiest "sport climbs" are at Echo Dome. There is a 5.8 and a few 5.9s, all safely bolted. The anchors are bolted. I'm not sure if it's possible to access the top without leading, but it might be.

It's worth noting that these routes are slabby, and will probably feel insecure and hard if most of your experience is in the gym. Use caution.

Wiley Abbott · · Mukilteo, WA · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 5

Lower Mount Scott has a couple classics (Mr. Clean, and High Anxiety) that can be TR by slinging a boulder. High Anxiety has rap bolts . They are two of my favorite climbs and have a super easy approach.

RestoredSteve · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 0

C., After being in the wichita's a couple of times i definitely see what you mean about being different than the gym :) What do you mean by slabby though?

Wiley, were you able to get to High Anxiety's rap bolts from the top or do you have to climb up to it? I hiked around there for only a few minutes to check it out last time I was there, but couldn't see any bolts. But I didn't have a lot of time to look.

Rigggs24 · · Denver, CO · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 45

Steve, I think lower mount Scott is a good place for you. You can reach the anchors for High Anxiety (5.7) from the top and there are a few harder climbs that you can set up top anchors using webbing. Repeat after me can be top roped and its a 10c with 3 roofs. I do think Mr Clean (5.8) can also be top roped. There is also an 11a sport route called layaway plan but i think the anchor bolts might be too far down the face to reach from the top. Have fun. The wichitas are a nice place in the fall.

Zoo wall is nice too but i have never set up a top rope there. i have always lead the routes so not sure how top roping is there. The narrows however is a great place to hike and one of the more scenic areas in OK.

Craig Childre · · Lubbock, TX · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 4,860

I would suggest you head over to the Narrows. You can get to the Crazy Alice anchor atop Zoo Wall. Rap down to the ledge that connects to the Dihedral. Place a directional nut up top, to guard against the pendulum swing, and you can TR it at 5.6. Crazy Alice is one of the best 5.8's in the state. Another favorite is Dr. Coolhead at 10c/d, which is a gym climbers worst nightmare with it's seemingly holdless crux with small crystals feet. Don't overlook Squeeze Play either, climbing the pocketed face between Alice and the Dihedral at 5.9. You can also work Resurrection Factor at 11c. As you can see, this anchor can service several routes, but it gets lots of business too. Get out early, suggest you get to the gate at 8:45 to ensure no one sets up first. Also, this station is used by the rest of the wall as a rap. So please avoid occupying both sets of chains, make way for those rapping, and wear your brain buckets. It's called a Zoo for a reason.

Craig Childre · · Lubbock, TX · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 4,860
RestoredSteve wrote: What do you mean by slabby though?
The section at and just above the first bolt on Dr. Coolhead exemplifies what slab climbing is, IMO. Basically, no crack, no hands, most of the movement is on tiny micro crystals footholds that you can barely see. You'll learn :) Have fun.
Creed Archibald · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,016

^^^ exactly. Slab climbs are less than vertical and lack features. You rely on friction and tiny crimps.

Craig Childre · · Lubbock, TX · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 4,860

I know it's the other site, but this line oozes slab climbing IMO
Tony on Master Race



Because that line, it looks impossible.
RestoredSteve · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 0

Thank you so much guys for your very speedy advice!!! I look forward to trying these out!

Does anybody know anything about meat slab in the narrows? Somebody mentioned the "easier" sport routes are real slabby and I remember there being some 5.6-5.8 routes on the meat slab, but didnt know if it was able to be top-roped with slings?

Craig Childre · · Lubbock, TX · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 4,860

Meat slab is a good spot to get into slab climbing. No bolts and no fixed anchor, but the left most route is easy to free solo. You can set up a TR anchor. It is a great spot to warm up and hone your friction skills.

Suggest you a couple of tennis balls along. Try climbing the slab with a ball in each hand, this should improve your footwork as well as your slab climbing in general.

RestoredSteve · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 0

Guys, thanks so much for the help. Was at WMWR Friday and Saturday and had a blast. Other than time making anchors and hanging out, we were climbing! Started at zoo wall and did crazy Alice, the dihedral, and squeeze play a few times (I didn't end up getting to attempt Dr. Coolheaded because we wanted to hit some other areas, or maybe I was intimidated, or both lol). Then went over to dream boat Annie to check it out, built an anchor, but my partner didn't feel comfortable with the scramble down. It was kind of steep for a scramble if I was reading the guide book's directions right. I also couldn't see down to the base but looked like there isn't much place to stand and belay? Anybody have any experience on this one? I felt comfortable topping out, but I have never belayed from above and we couldn't find a good way for my partner to go up or down from the base. If anybody has any tips id love it as I thought those cracks looked super fun.

The next day we went over to lower mount Scott and hit high anxiety and its variation as well as birthday boy and a small Finger crack/face route just feet to the left of birthday boy. At the end of the day I had just started working on repeat after me when it started raining, boo!!! It was a little more difficult than I expected, although once I figured out where the holds and positions were it was like oh that's not bad. Only got to just above 2nd roof when it started raining. Looking forward to going back and finishing that.

Didn't get to echo dome, so that will have to wait till next time. Seriously, though all your advice was extremely helpful.

beensandbagged · · smallest state · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 0
Craig Childre wrote:I know it's the other site, but this line oozes slab climbing IMO Tony on Master Race Because that line, it looks impossible.
Where's the slab in that picture?
Craig Childre · · Lubbock, TX · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 4,860

For Dream Boat, I've never scrambled down. We always just rapped off the anchor, which is a little tricky, but far better than a scramble. The Belay stance below has plenty of room.

Be sure to attempt Coolhead next time your in the Narrows. The crux shuts so many down, but it has some great moves getting into it, and sick moves above it. I still work it, but usually have to yard up through the crux as I've only been able to do the moves a few times.

Also, Aerial Anticipation made Climbing's top 100! I couldn't agree more. A good line to TR, but you have to lead Shake Your Groove Thing 5.6 to reach the anchor. Even if I don't get on it, I usually take the detour over to stand below in awe... such an ascetic line. Could serve as motivation to learn to lead easy trad and get some cams.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Midwest
Post a Reply to "Wichita Mountain Climbing Info Help?"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.