Smith for a day

Never been to Smith Rock, but my fiancee and I have one day to spend there. Can anyone recommend an itinerary? We're looking for mostly 5.7 - 5.10a. What are the must dos? Is there a place with a good concentration of moderate classics?

Thanks!

Dave

I would suggest not wasting too much time walking around. With only 1 day, I would probably avoid the backside of the park to save time. There are good routes everywhere. If I were you, starting from the parking lot, I would work my way clockwise, and hit up these areas in this order:

Western Ship River Face
Morning Glory Wall
The Peanut
The Dihedrals
Christian Brothers East Side
Phoenix

This would set you up for a lot of routes, and a pretty full day here are some of my recommendation for those areas:

mountainproject.com/v/phone…
mountainproject.com/v/5-gal…
mountainproject.com/v/the-o…
mountainproject.com/v/pop-g…
mountainproject.com/v/ginge… and mountainproject.com/v/cry-b…
mountainproject.com/v/irrev…
mountainproject.com/v/hissi…
mountainproject.com/v/phoen…

Bring a stick clip. These are all sport climbs. If you want trad recommendations, then I dont know. This would also give you a good sample of the different rock at smith. Some nubbins on slab, the giant buckets, and the other stuff at the phoenix

Depends on the weather. If it's clear and warmer than 75F then hump on over asterisk pass and climb there. Do "Wherever I May Rome" - 5.9 sport adventure which takes a diagonal direction to seek easier terrain. Very fun! 5 pitches I think. Get on early to avoid crowds.

The Mesa Verde wall has several wonderful 5.10 sport climbs, such as Screaming Yellow Zonkers.

In the afternoon when the sun has ruined the west side, go back over the pass and climb the Llama wall, and then Phoenix Buttress.

Of course, if the weather is cool and or overcast, then staying with Eddie's recommendations is great. If so, do "Voyage of the Cow Dog" which is one of the most fun climbs for the grade and very close to the bridge (5.8 with one 5.9 move near the top, albeit a bit of a hike up the gully. It's 3 pitches and one of which is a short low fifth traverse. The views are awesome!

Advice on stick clips is also good as a lot of crux's are right off the ground. If you want to rent a guide book you can get one form the local climb shop near the highway for $5.

There's two seasons at Smith - Shade chasing season, and sun chasing season. Assuming you'll be there in the near future, the weather may vary greatly. Have fun!

You guys are awesome! We ended up hiking over and doing Where ever I may roam. A+ climb!

Will definitely be back to do a more thorough exploration of the park.