11:11 5.12-
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 115 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12- [details] |
| FA: | Joshua Janes. |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Josh Janes on Jun 28, 2009 |
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Josh Janes moving into it on the FA.
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Description 11:11 (obviously the name has nothing to do with the rating) climbs the overhanging S-shaped crack just right of Double Clutching and left of Chronic.
Head up to a low roof, and pull gingerly past this (some hollow-sounding flakes) to the right, and then follow a cool seam and corner up to a stance. This is just left of the business (the bottom of the S-crack). Place a blind cam if possible and then crank on some good locks to get up into the crack which gradually widens to perfect hands. Mantle onto the top of the column to a bolted lower-off.
This is a great, entirely gear-protected route with a burly, fun crux.
Protection Pro to 3", extra tips and small fingers pieces. Wires. A 60m rope *might* make it down but use a 70 to be sure.
Josh J. pulling into it! Sports action!
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Josh Janes on the FA, caught in hard light and har...
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Dan Foster going for it on his first run.
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Matt just before the crux
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Matt in the middle of the crux
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Placing the crux gear on the onsight.
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By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Jun 28, 2009
| Great job on this FA Josh! It's a great addition to a great crag. I'm looking forward to getting the redpoint. |
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 30, 2009
| Make a wish? Well done. I agree with Mike, it is just a matter of time. |
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 5, 2010
| Hey Josh,
Just so you know, I am saving this one for just the right moment, on just the right day, when the wind rustles in my ear, and I am feeling primed for a Waterfall 5.12 onsight....? It has been a decade or more since I have had the 'pure' pleasure of such, and I don't want to spoil it! |
By Keith Beckley
From: Santa Fe
Oct 23, 2011
| Almost sent this classic recently. Slipped on the lower 5.11 stemming at flare. Huge bush growing out of it. Once i removed the foilage was able to fire the crux bulge and up to the chains. Gonna have to try it again some time! WOnderful route! 5.12a |
By Josh Janes
Dec 18, 2011
| Glad people are getting on this - JJ, have you sent yet? |
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