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The Double Clutching Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
11:11 (AKA "Welcome to the Waterfall") T 
Block Party T 
Checkin' the Oil T 
Checkin' The Oil Direct T 
Chronic, The T 
Comin In Hot T,S 
Crux Deluxe T 
Double Clutching T 
Double Helix T 
In a Blunt T 
Rude Awakening T 
Super Chron T 
SwitchBlade T 
Terminal Mocha T 
Thin Faith T 
Wolverine T 

11:11 (AKA "Welcome to the Waterfall") 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Joshua Janes.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,248
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 28, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Placing the crux gear on the onsight.

Description 

11:11 (obviously the name has nothing to do with the rating) climbs the overhanging S-shaped crack just right of Double Clutching and left of Double Helix.

Head up to a low roof, and pull gingerly past this (some hollow-sounding flakes) to the right, and then follow a cool seam and corner up to a stance. This is just left of the business (the bottom of the S-crack). Place a blind cam if possible and then crank on some good locks to get up into the crack which gradually widens to perfect hands. Mantle onto the top of the column to a bolted lower-off.

This is a great, entirely gear-protected route with a burly, fun crux.

Protection 

Pro to 3", extra tips and small fingers pieces. Wires. A 60m rope *might* make it down but use a 70 to be sure.


Photos of 11:11 (AKA "Welcome to the Waterfall") Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh Janes moving into it on the FA.
Josh Janes moving into it on the FA.
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh J. pulling into it!  Sports action!
Josh J. pulling into it! Sports action!
Rock Climbing Photo: Closing in on my one and only .12 send on gear!
Closing in on my one and only .12 send on gear!
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh Janes on the FA, caught in hard light and har...
Josh Janes on the FA, caught in hard light and har...
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt in the middle of the crux
Matt in the middle of the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Dan Foster going for it on his first run.
Dan Foster going for it on his first run.
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt just before the crux
Matt just before the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Photos (and endless encouragement) by Dylan Lepper...
Photos (and endless encouragement) by Dylan Lepper...

Comments on 11:11 (AKA "Welcome to the Waterfall") Add Comment
Show which comments
By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Jun 28, 2009

Great job on this FA Josh! It's a great addition to a great crag. I'm looking forward to getting the redpoint.
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 30, 2009

Make a wish? Well done. I agree with Mike, it is just a matter of time.
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 5, 2010

Hey Josh,

Just so you know, I am saving this one for just the right moment, on just the right day, when the wind rustles in my ear, and I am feeling primed for a Waterfall 5.12 onsight....? It has been a decade or more since I have had the 'pure' pleasure of such, and I don't want to spoil it!
By Keith Beckley
Oct 23, 2011

Almost sent this classic recently. Slipped on the lower 5.11 stemming at flare. Huge bush growing out of it. Once i removed the foilage was able to fire the crux bulge and up to the chains. Gonna have to try it again some time! WOnderful route! 5.12a
By Josh Janes
General Admin
Dec 18, 2011

Glad people are getting on this - JJ, have you sent yet?
By Robbie Brown
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 30, 2013
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This line kicks ass! Powerful, technical, and clean!

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