Anyone have a topo for Barad Dur at Wolf Rock?

Does anyone have a topo for Barad Dur at Wolf Rock? I'm hoping to do it on Sunday and would like the convenience of a Topo. Thanks, Jayson

I will recommend this trip report (not a topo, but with lots of information): chossclimbers.com/testing/u…

Decent topos exist in Greg Orton's Rock Climbing Western Oregon: The Willamette and Tim Olson's Northwest Oregon Rock. Both can be found at REI or most other regional outdoor stores.

Generally the route is not too hard to follow, pitch four probably has the trickiest route finding, but it goes if you take your time.

While there are certainly chossy sections, rest assured that the hardest moves on the route are on the best rock with good bolts and/or good gear.

The MP description is good. Have fun, its one of Oregon's best routes! Post up to let us know how it went.

Edited for spelling.

I managed to lose the route and ended up in the pucker-zone.

It doesn't get done often so the petina can be hard to read. It goes up, jogs left then traverses right. Good luck

Bailed at the top of the fourth pitch. Our nerves were fried by the quality of the rock, what I would call shit, not complete shit because that is the quality of the rock around the route, but pretty bad.I knocked off rock right next to the route by brushing against it with my elbow. On the pitch three traverse the follower took a good whipper when his hold exploded in his face.

There is a 1 foot by 2 foot sharp loose flake that you have to pull on in the crux of pitch four that sealed the deal for us.It moves back and fourth about a half inch. I didn't get to test it super well because if it ripped out it was going to fall directly on to the rope, and it was sharp. I also had used up my number two camalot prior to the traverse under that roof making it R/X. No matter how hard I tried that #3 just wouldn't fit.

On the rap the ropes got cammed by the quicklinks on the bolts and I had to ascend back up. Total cluster.

Barad Dur 1, Us 0

I'd go back for it when you get the chance. Newly rebolted, but still easy to get off route. Might be better piece of mind if you can find someone that has done it to go back with you.

New to the area and very psyched to climb this route, anyone want to go do it on Sunday?

Jayson Nissen wrote:Bailed at the top of the fourth pitch. Our nerves were fried by the quality of the rock, what I would call shit, not complete shit because that is the quality of the rock around the route, but pretty bad.I knocked off rock right next to the route by brushing against it with my elbow. On the pitch three traverse the follower took a good whipper when his hold exploded in his face. There is a 1 foot by 2 foot sharp loose flake that you have to pull on in the crux of pitch four that sealed the deal for us.It moves back and fourth about a half inch. I didn't get to test it super well because if it ripped out it was going to fall directly on to the rope, and it was sharp. I also had used up my number two camalot prior to the traverse under that roof making it R/X. No matter how hard I tried that #3 just wouldn't fit. On the rap the ropes got cammed by the quicklinks on the bolts and I had to ascend back up. Total cluster. Barad Dur 1, Us 0

I did get slightly off route on the second pitch just where the corner starts to form. I climbed the face of the feature that the second anchors are on top of until I saw the bolt to my right.

I do not think that I was off route on pitch 4. I climbed ten feet straight up from the 3rd anchors then angled up right on this ramp for 60 or so feet. Then I made a short vertical climb onto a slanting ledge in a right facing corner with two quarter inch bolts. From this stance on the left side of the corner was a large flake which slotted a questionable nut behind. Next time I would save a blue TCU or smaller for that placement. I surmounted the flake to a jug, which turned out to be the loose flake that I described earlier. This put me just under a roof. I plugged a yellow TCU into a crack to the right and traversed left under the roof. about 6-8 feet left was a nice placement for a #2 camalot, which I didn't have. I then finished traversing maybe another 6-8 feet left and plugged in the #3 moved slightly left and up then back right to the anchor.

I don't think that I was off route at all. Without the #2 I felt like the climbing was around 5.7 R/X given the potential for the 15-20 foot fall/pendulum into the ramp below. Other than that it protected nicely. I would have also liked the #2 so that I could have back cleaned the TCU. I had bad rope drag at the end of this pitch. So did the third climber even with far fewer pieces placed. I was definitely unnerved by that loose flake and the runout given the poor quality of the rock so it is possible that the climbing was easier than I remember but my climbing partners also raised concerns about safety on this route which is why I bailed. After leading that pitch I really needed a boost to my morale.

I am already thinking about going back. I think that knowing the first four pitches would make them much easier, though I would not trivialize the danger that the rock quality presents. Getting into the two crux pitches in the right mind space would probably be key for me to succeed on this route.

Well, it goes without saying that any moves 5.8 or less have shit or no pro. That's just the nature of the beast. From what I remember, I didn't even want to place the first two pitches (what you probably call pitches 1-4) due to the jenga pile nature of the route. The two crux moves on the whole climb, as I recall, are protected by a bolt each.