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Washington
> Central-E Casca…
> Leavenworth
> Icicle Creek
> Snow Creek Area
> Snow Creek Wall
White Slabs
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British PG13
Avg: 1.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Snow Creek Wall
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Afterburner T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Edge of Space T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hyperspace T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Iconoclast T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mary Jane Dihedral T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nebula (lite) "Nebulite" T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Orbit T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Outer Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Psychopath T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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RPM T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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RPM (2nd pitch early exit) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Silver Tongue, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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White Slabs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Yellow Wall T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 430 ft (130 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | FA: Don Gordon, John Rupley, 1958 FFA: Fred Beckey, Charles Bell, 1961 |
| Page Views: | 2,134 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Don MacKenzie on Sep 26, 2015 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Each year, the USFS monitors for raptor nesting.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
Description
Kramar's guide calls this a "polished looking route." I would clarify that in many places, it doesn't just look polished, it is polished. Which is somewhat unexpected, given that it doesn't seem to get a lot of use.
P1 (160') Start up the blocky, dirty corner and follow it past the first tree with rap slings about 50' up. (Optional belay). Continue up past a couple of slippery but easy moves to a second tree, and belay.
P2 (140') Angle up and left on easier ground with poor protection to gain a left facing corner. Climb the corner past progressively trickier moves to gain a large sloping ledge, and set a belay below a short vertical wall split by a crack.
P3 (120') Climb the vertical wall and continue up a brushy corner system, passing a large horn. A short distance above, move up and right over a tricky bulge, then up an easy groove before exiting right onto the Country Club Ramp.
P1 (160') Start up the blocky, dirty corner and follow it past the first tree with rap slings about 50' up. (Optional belay). Continue up past a couple of slippery but easy moves to a second tree, and belay.
P2 (140') Angle up and left on easier ground with poor protection to gain a left facing corner. Climb the corner past progressively trickier moves to gain a large sloping ledge, and set a belay below a short vertical wall split by a crack.
P3 (120') Climb the vertical wall and continue up a brushy corner system, passing a large horn. A short distance above, move up and right over a tricky bulge, then up an easy groove before exiting right onto the Country Club Ramp.
Location
The route starts to the right of the white-streaked slab, which is itself to the right of the start of Outer Space. Look for a crooked tree, which may have rap slings, about 50 feet off the deck. The climb starts directly below this.
The route ends on the Country Club Ramp. Kramar's guidebook implies that you can link this up to Umbrella Tree (5.7) to top out. However we were unable to locate Umbrella Tree and chose to rap the route instead of topping out. It took 6 raps to the ground with a 60 m rope. You might do it in fewer raps with two ropes, but the risk of getting a rope caught would be significant.
The route ends on the Country Club Ramp. Kramar's guidebook implies that you can link this up to Umbrella Tree (5.7) to top out. However we were unable to locate Umbrella Tree and chose to rap the route instead of topping out. It took 6 raps to the ground with a 60 m rope. You might do it in fewer raps with two ropes, but the risk of getting a rope caught would be significant.
Protection
There are some slings on the route, at the rap stations, but you should plan on bringing gear for anchors. We took a triple rack of cams from 0.75-3", plus a set of nuts, and a single set of smaller cams. This was probably overkill, but did make life easy with the long pitches and gear anchors. The route appears to see little traffic and you may want to bring some extra tat for reinforcing rap stations.
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