Bolting near San Diego.

I would like to learn how to bolt routes. Will volunteer to help out to develop local areas. I have a grip of finances to invest into bolting routes.

Buy a Hilti hammerdrill, extra battery and a grip of stainless steel 3/8 inch bolts and hangars. Post which areas you want to bolt in.

You don't need 4 batteries unless you are bolting several long pitches at once and preferably use 1/2" quality SS sleeve bolts not stud bolts (or SS glue-in bolts once you really know what you are doing) Have pride and take the time to do a really good job, and just bolt the really good natural lines and not every square foot that can be climbed. It takes discipline. Bolting can be like meth for some and they get excited and end up firing in bolts into every 1 star line they see.

Agree with M. Sprage.... Just wish to add this.

If you RAP BOLT... climb the route many times before you place any.

Sort of like the old carpenters rule: "Measure twice, cut once.... "

Serg Tank wrote:I would like to learn how to bolt routes. Will volunteer to help out to develop local areas. I have a grip of finances to invest into bolting routes.

You only bolt your own routes. Retro bolting someone elses route is bullshit. Take the time and make the effort to find a new route if you want to bolt. If you have to ask where you must not be a climber, because there is an infinite amount of rock in San Diego County. Or did you just want to bolt something near a trail? You are 30 years too late for that, make your own trail and bolt your own routes

Ron Amick wrote:

You only bolt your own routes. Retro bolting someone elses route is bullshit. Take the time and make the effort to find a new route if you want to bolt. If you have to ask where you must not be a climber, because there is an infinite amount of rock in San Diego County. Or did you just want to bolt something near a trail? You are 30 years too late for that, make your own trail and bolt your own routes

So sassy Ron 

Ron Amick wrote:

You only bolt your own routes. Retro bolting someone elses route is bullshit. Take the time and make the effort to find a new route if you want to bolt. If you have to ask where you must not be a climber, because there is an infinite amount of rock in San Diego County. Or did you just want to bolt something near a trail? You are 30 years too late for that, make your own trail and bolt your own routes

This thread was from 2015…

Be judicious about how you place your bolts. For TR anchors look at swing potential and visualize how the sling setup will be. If you want to bolt leads, do it on your own routes, not something that someone else put up. And for gods sake dont rap down and put lead bolts where you think you will need them. Put them in on the lead (carry a line to haul up the drill), or climb it first so the bolts are well placed. Nothing is worse than trying to clip a poorly located bolt from the middle of a 5.11 move. Make sure the leader can get a hand free to grab a draw and make the clip, even if it means a little more distance between bolts. When bolting a route that is right at your limit avoid the temptation to over bolt it. You may think you need the bolts now, but you will regret it when you get better. And dont add a bunch of chains, links or cold shuts to TR anchors. The bolts and hangers are plenty. The more pieces in the anchor, the more failure points, and the less versatile the anchor is

oh 2015...well ive never minded beating a dead horse lol

There’s nothing to learn about bolting from the forums except opinions.

Hijacking this for a random question for ron or trad or whoever... What's the logic or ethic with the single bolt additions?? In the past year there's been a single bolt added to (and chopped) at the top of Out of Sight, Rockwork Orange, and others. First, it's lame. But second, why not add an actual 2-bolt anchor. ? 

Tradiban wrote:

There’s nothing to learn about bolting from the forums except opinions.

That and experience

DionAkers wrote:

Hijacking this for a random question for ron or trad or whoever... What's the logic or ethic with the single bolt additions?? In the past year there's been a single bolt added to (and chopped) at the top of Out of Sight, Rockwork Orange, and others. First, it's lame. But second, why not add an actual 2-bolt anchor. ? 

I think the stronger the belay better, lead bolts are one thing, i see no reason to chop TR anchor bolts

Ron Amick wrote:

I think the stronger the belay better, lead bolts are one thing, i see no reason to chop TR anchor bolts

I do. Never let up on the sport climbers, before you know it they’ll have bolted your daughter!