All Locations > New Mexico > Albuquerque Area > Sandia Mountains > Pinnacle Valley > WatchTower

Watchman's Secret, Variation

Name: Watchman's Secret, Variation
Rating: 3.0

5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13

Routes in WatchTower

L › R R › L A › Z

	Alchemy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Cry for Merlin T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
	Crybaby S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Excalibur T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Seventh Sojourn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Sword In The Stone (Clarent), The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Watchman's Secret T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
	Watchman's Secret, Variation T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13

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Type:	Trad, Alpine, 90 ft (27 m), Grade II
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	930 total · 9/month
Shared By:	Courtney Bryan on Sep 9, 2015
Admins:	Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Unknown developer!! FA?? This route is a variation for the second pitch of The Watchman's Secret. After first pitch of Watchman's, head straight up and slightly right after anchor. (Left line = second pitch of original route). Climb over bulge on easy 5.9 terrain via runout bolts and iffy gear to reach glorious horizontal finger crack traverse. With delicate feet and superior crimps, clip two stacked bolts and pull onto vertical face. Layback thin vertical crack, either run-out to next bolt or place a 0.4 cam in flaring, shallow crack and convince yourself it'll hold. Finish on technical bulges and slab to reach anchor for final pitch of Watchman's Secret. PG 13 pro for sure but bomber rock. Crux is transitioning from horizontal to vertical crack (well protected). Clean falls. By itself or tied into other two pitches of Watchman's, this is an exceptional and exceptionally fun route. Five stars.

Location

Start on The Wachman's Secret (see route description). Hard right traverse to first double hanger belay. At anchor, head straight up and right instead of going left for traditional route.