Alaska Climbing!

To claim that Hatcher Pass isn't historically a ground up area is ludicrous... I never made the claim "all " as you have falsely stated...

If you think that these bolts won't get chopped? Well it's good to wish for things I guess?

I could be wrong but I don't think you were around a few years ago when Kelsey decided to retro bolt Splat Button and that other line beside it at Crack in the Woods? Remember the outcome?

Some things never change, unfortunately.

Why does your generation of climbers need routes done decades ago lowered to a standard easily obtainable to you?

MY generation? You don't even know who I am. hahaha. I was around during that deal, you chopped bolts, got agro on super topo etc etc. Maybe you didn't know me, but frankly I'm glad,

I am a local after all... raised on alaskan stone. Where are are you from?

For starters I don't care who you are... Let's see... I know who Clint, Shocker, and cave monkey are... but you are such a long established, "local", "raised on Alaskan Stone", active climber that I haven't the slightest clue who you are. You're must have done tons for the "local" climbing community to have made such an impression...

If you're the "local" why do you need me to explain to you the historical ethical differences of different "local" areas?

With an endless amount of F.A. potential in that area why was adding bolts to a route that's been long established even considered?

All I can come up with is a complete utter lack of anything resembling an imagination.

hahaha. This is hilarious.

Yeah you're right it's "hilarious"? Glad you think it's funny...

Here's what will happen... Someone will remove the bolt/bolts in question. Wait and see...

And my question, that you've been dodging, is why? Why risk it? Why risk the inevitable confrontation that is obviously going to occure when you alter long standing established routes? Why?

I don't think I'm alone with this thought.

Why not just put the bolts on a new line on virgin stone? There's no shortage of it here.

Way to answer the question... and people wonder why the bolts will just disappear without any discussion...

Classy how you, the administration, violates your own "acceptable" terms of use. Thanks for the positive discussion on the topic too

Let's invite Roger to that discussion? Wait, he was already involved in that discussion about his own route. End of debate. :)

Maybe so but wait and see what happens? Someone will come along, see the new bolt and chop it.

Why do we need new bolts added to old routes?

Are you Rodger?

John,

You should contact the FA party and make sure they are aware of the retro's. Pollard or Sweeney might even want to do the chopping them selves. Until those guys chime in take it easy, none of your routes have been added to. The only person on this forum who has any right to complain is Andy. Some of his routes HAVE been retro'd, yet he isn't out chopping bolts.

Yeah i should talk to Sweeney... It's been awhile

The question I'd like to have answered is why risk having this conflict at all? Why add bolts to an established route? I think it's FOR the attention the inevitable shit storm brings.

Oh and Dommelhiemer I didn't mean "your" generation as an insult but some of us posting on this thread were climbing in the 80's instead of being born... There's a large, undeniable ethical disconnect there. I'd like to know why?

Hey, if Roger is fine with it then whatever..... Man. I followed Kristians lead on that route ten years ago, and it was definitely a qualifier. Dangerous if you weren't solid. Memorable down low for that, and glorious climbing up higher. I enjoy experiences like that, others don't. I think there should be classic risky beautiful lines like that out there. There are PLENTY of great well protected 5.10s out there. Why dumb this one down? For your self? For others? For others to serve your ego? That's my guess why. As long as you can be honest about it.
Do you notice how all the gym raised entitlement crowd on their second pair of shoes just loves Kelsey? And all the folks that have been sticking it out there in AK for decades think he has piss poor style? Huh.
And I'm not sure why the jabs about the Jungle gym being squeezed.... The closest bolted lines on the cliffs are 50 feet apart. 3 out of the 9 climbs have some bolts... The rest of the Independant traditionally protected moderate lines were squeezed in by Mother Nature.... Not like the recent Grid bolting that Kelsey did at Sunshine Butress, where you can touch 3 lines bolts from one stance... In more than one spot. That's an example of style differences.
And the mixed metal bolts were given to me by a certain member of the AAC twice the age of you.... To give the ASCA something to do in 20 years, other than actually going climbing.

So.......

Did Rachel and her BF get out climbing?

Shocker - has Sunshine Ridge been "re" retro bolted? Or is this a different/new episode? I think a guy named Pat was responsible for the ones I'm think of?

looks just like you Clint!

I don't even care if Pollard gives an OK. My vote is "chop shop". All you yunguns best show some 'spect

It is kind of questionable if the start of Lemming Ranch is even a retro. Some claim the route starts way right, however pictures suggest that the route starts left. Who knows what happened 25 years ago when they were putting it up. Pictures are worth a thousand words, not some stoners memory from 25 years ago. The new route that goes left is an independent line after the 3rd bolt. Mountain project should be about first hand knowledge. So go climb the route before you make a decision if this is a true foul. At the base of the two routes there is one bolt for rappelling, why two were not put in are beyond me. If the FA party says its cool it should be cool.

Love the pic Clint keep them coming.

How many times does this need to happen?

It's called Escape From the Lemming Ranch. Not Lemming Farm. But that's ok, it's hard to get the name right when you have never even been to the base of the route.

Oh my bad. Ranch....

I don't think that the route name is at the root of this controversy...

Oh and it's been a bit but honestly I don't remember the start being that bad... It's not surprising that rock Jockie wasn't around for it... He was learning how to tie his shoes in grade school at the time.