Reverso 4 as an ascender
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Whats the consensus on using a Reverso 4 or any other guide-mode/autoblocking devices as a backup ascender? Petzl's instructions for the original Reverso show that the device can be use for "Occasional Rope Climbing" (picture with climber hands off, no backup) but the newer devices don't mention if this is acceptable or not. |
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I think that's because the newer generations of Reverso switched the anchor point and rotated it 90 degrees. So the plane of the device no longer works as an ascender. The BD guide and any other device with a similarly oriented anchor point should still work, but only if the device is properly setup in the high-friction configuration. |
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I would do it if I had to, but I would never plan on using it for this purpose. I have a Ropeman II that I use instead. |
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Nick Sweeney wrote:I would do it if I had to, but I would never plan on using it for this purpose.End thread. |
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I've not tried the Reverso 4, but have done it with an ATC Guide. It worked, but was painful. |
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The guide works fine |
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have done this before but it's a major pain in the ass. it works in a pinch. |
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One problem is you need slack in the rope to get the device threaded. So if you're in a "I've fallen and I can't get up" situation, this isn't going to help you. You'd better know how to ascend the rope with a pair of prusik slings. |
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Gunkiemike wrote:One problem is you need slack in the rope to get the device threaded. So if you're in a "I've fallen and I can't get up" situation, this isn't going to help you. You'd better know how to ascend the rope with a pair of prusik slings.all you need is a single sling with a kleimheist/hedden (see below but rather than a tibloc use a single friction knot) petzl catalog 2011 the other thing is that if you only have slings having the bottom (waist) ascender with autoblock may be more secure .... its a kleimheist may slip if pressure is applied directly to the knot (top kleimheist slips and hits the lower one) also on rappel if you need to reascend its often easier to transition to guide mode ... see below blog.alpineinstitute.com/20… however as i stated the rope can be a bit hard to pull back through ... but there is a trick that helps with that ;) |
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bearbreeder, |
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ductapeclimber wrote:Whats the consensus on using a Reverso 4 or any other guide-mode/autoblocking devices as a backup ascender? Petzl's instructions for the original Reverso show that the device can be use for "Occasional Rope Climbing" (picture with climber hands off, no backup) but the newer devices don't mention if this is acceptable or not. bmi.gv.at/cms/BMI_Alpindien…I have done this. With a reverso it is fine with thin ropes, with fatter ropes (i.e. a normal single) it is almost impossible. A bit better with a BD guide. For any distance I would switch to prussiks. However, it works nicely if you are on abseil and miss the chains by a few metres and need to get back up, as then, unless it is very steep, you only need the reverso, not a second device. |
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Gunkiemike wrote:One problem is you need slack in the rope to get the device threaded. So if you're in a "I've fallen and I can't get up" situation, this isn't going to help you. You'd better know how to ascend the rope with a pair of prusik slings.I have done it as well, at the suggestion of a guide during a crevasse rescue course. The problem above is true, you need to find a way to get the initial bight of rope through the device. A prussick will help but just realize the initial setup requires this step. The other problem I had, was that somehow the load and brake strands actually got twisted in the device, such that basically both strands were jammed (on what I'm guessing was a 10mm rope). Try undoing that mess with just your arm strength while hanging. SUCKS! Presumably it has something to do with the device being inverted compared to normal top belay guide mode, but it was really eye opening that it even happened so easily. And remember, you are pulling the rope UP through the device, so it can get tiring faster. After that experience, I chose other first choice methods for my crevasse rescue kit, but yes it does work. |
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Gunkiemike wrote:One problem is you need slack in the rope to get the device threaded. So if you're in a "I've fallen and I can't get up" situation, this isn't going to help you. You'd better know how to ascend the rope with a pair of prusik slings.I have done it as well, at the suggestion of a guide during a crevasse rescue course. The problem above is true, you need to find a way to get the initial bight of rope through the device. A prussick will help but just realize the initial setup requires this step. The other problem I had, was that somehow the load and brake strands actually got twisted in the device, such that basically both strands were jammed (on what I'm guessing was a 10mm rope). Try undoing that mess with just your arm strength while hanging. SUCKS! Presumably it has something to do with the device being inverted compared to normal top belay guide mode, but it was really eye opening that it even happened so easily. And remember, you are pulling the rope UP through the device, so it can get tiring faster. After that experience, I chose other first choice methods for my crevasse rescue kit, but yes it does work. |
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Gunkiemike wrote:One problem is you need slack in the rope to get the device threaded. So if you're in a "I've fallen and I can't get up" situation, this isn't going to help you. You'd better know how to ascend the rope with a pair of prusik slings.The solution is as follows. Place one long prusik on rope above you (or a short one with a long sling clipped to it). Tie an overhand knot in the prusik near the prusik knot. Stand in prusik and clip a krab from your belay loop to the overhand. Sit down. You will now have a loop of rope at your harness to install the reverso. Pictures of the process to be found here: people.bath.ac.uk/dac33/hig… |
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This is a really interesting concept. Like someone said, could be nice in a pinch, for ascending a small distance.. maybe? Will read more. |
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Of course it works. And of course it sucks |
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With a gigi or an alpine smart it works like a charm ... Super easy to pull the rope |