dyneema, nylon and mixed slings ...
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from the DAV |
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but those are german slings, what about american slings? |
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I don't understand the bar graph. I see that green is full strength and red is very weak but what do the numbers on the side mean. |
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rocknice2 wrote:I don't understand the bar graph. I see that green is full strength and red is very weak but what do the numbers on the side mean.I believe the numbers to the left of the bar graphs represent the percentage of slings that scored in a particular category during a test. The first bar starting from the left is green and at 100, representing all (100%) of the slings from that particular test. |
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For those whose google translate-fu is weak sauce ... |
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and this is why i use nylon and question BD's ultra light cams. Given the ultra lights do have special protection around their dyneema but still do they loose 25% of their strength after 3 years??? or is all the strength lost purely due to the sun that they are being protected from. |
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Why can't those damn germans use XMLs or post results online, where google translate can just do the whole document. it's as if they're trying to keep their results to themselves. |
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I have 3 year old dyneema shoe laces...will I die? |
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Ray Pinpillage wrote:I have 3 year old dyneema shoe laces...will I die?most definitely |
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Sooooooo, does Dyneema degrade because of age alone, duration of exposure to UV, other environmental factors? Seems like if we're going to be all sciency we could define what's causing the reduction of strength. |
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Ray Pinpillage wrote: duration of exposure to UV,Dyneema has strong resistance to UV, much stronger than nylon. Spectra is what you are looking at. |
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The Data is correct but your implication is wrong nonetheless. Even though spectra is more resistant to UV than Nylon, the rays don't penetrate Nylon material and therefore don't weaken the webbing that much. With spectra it's the opposite. UV goes right through the webbing affecting all strands. That does weaken the whole sling a lot more. Most decrease in breaking strength of Dyneema comes from UV. |
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So instead of the usual "should I retire my rope?" It's going to be should I retire my slings? |
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Bill Kirby wrote: So instead of the usual "should I retire my rope?" It's going to be should I retire my slings?Ever notice that BD, DMM, Petzl, WC, Etc pull test everything and do environmental studies on gear available on the market? Ever notice how there is an absence of available data for Dyneema strength loss? There's not an actual absence of testing, Dyneema is used in bulletproof vests and accelerated environmental studies have been performed as I posted. I know what you're thinking though, an absence of evidence isn't evidence in and of itself. You're right Bill, but there is a correlation between the lack of publicly released testing and the need by manufacturers. Further, if this were such an overwhelming problem we'd see injuries or deaths but we don't really. Zeeee German's study seems poorly thought out from what I can extrapolate from BB's loose translation. Their graph is unreadable and I can't see any controls or causes. I think I'm going to call this one a swing and a miss. |
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The wear in dyneema comes from 3 sources |
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bearbreeder wrote:Just because one barely uses his dyneema slings and thinks theres never any an issue doesnt make it true =P Please provide a citation to support your assertion that minimally used dyneema degrades over time (assuming no obvious signs of external wear). bearbreeder wrote:The simple fact is that if you use yr dyneema slings decently you should be retiring them after 3 years or so, 5 years maxThis statement conflicts with the above statement. |
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Ray Pinpillage wrote: Please provide a citation to support your assertion that minimally used dyneema degrades over time (assuming no obvious signs of external wear). This statement conflicts with the above statement.Please provide a source to support yr claim that dyneema life in climbing applications doesnt matter there ray Perhaps you should READ the actual article before going off on it... They five specific examples in it Perhaps you dont use yr dyneema slings where there will be wear ... After all you cant wear out yr climbing gear unless u actually climb ;) |
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bearbreeder wrote: Please provide a source to support yr claim that dyneema life in climbing applications doesnt matter there ray Perhaps you should READ the actual article before going off on it... They five specific examples in it Perhaps you dont use yr dyneema slings where there will be wear ... After all you cant wear out yr climbing gear unless u actually climb ;)I'm making no claims. You could be right, I just want proof. The German "test" was pretty full of holes from what I can see. Also, there is a correlation between the use of Dyneema in bulletproof vests and climbing equipment. One of the measured factors is time in service (accelerated). They tested new samples but did not test non-accelerated aged samples. If time in service is basically environmental exposure, how does that correlate to samples aged without exposure if at all? My point is that while I think you are well intentioned to say the service life of Dyneema is 3 to 5 years I don't think there is a linear extrapolation from date placed into service until retirement because environmental exposure aren't static. In other words, "barely used" Dyneema should not degrade at the same rate as "decently" using a similar sample unless time is a contributing factor to degradation. If we're making the assertion that time is a contributing factor I would like to see a study concluding such results. |
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bearbreeder wrote:After all you cant wear out yr climbing gear unless u actually climb ;)I'm glad you're starting to see my point. |
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Ray Pinpillage wrote: Ever notice that BD, DMM, Petzl, WC, Etc pull test everything and do environmental studies on gear available on the market? Ever notice how there is an absence of available data for Dyneema strength loss? There's not an actual absence of testing, Dyneema is used in bulletproof vests and accelerated environmental studies have been performed as I posted. I know what you're thinking though, an absence of evidence isn't evidence in and of itself. You're right Bill, but there is a correlation between the lack of publicly released testing and the need by manufacturers. Further, if this were such an overwhelming problem we'd see injuries or deaths but we don't really. Zeeee German's study seems poorly thought out from what I can extrapolate from BB's loose translation. Their graph is unreadable and I can't see any controls or causes. I think I'm going to call this one a swing and a miss.I hear ya! The more I fall, hang and claw my way stuff the less I buy that the sky is falling. Did you see the latest .2 X4 explosion? If my fat ass can hang from one than those cams are good enough for me. |
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To put it simply ... |