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Routes in The Mission Wall
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Behind The Sun S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Billy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Billy the Kid S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Challenger S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Eye of the Beholder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Garrett's Revenge S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Gneiss Roof (AKA: Nice Ride) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gneiss Route S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Ground Control to Gumby One S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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It's Not You, It's Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ride The Snake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rocketman S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Three Points of Contact S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Wild Child S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Sport, 320 ft (97 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Thor Kieser |
| Page Views: | 10,556 total · 39/month |
| Shared By: | Thor Kieser on Dec 31, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Description
The route starts on a platform about fifty feet to the left of the huge pegmatite dike that splits Mission Wall vertically. The first pitch is well protected 5.9+, and the crux is pulling over a right-facing corner roof about halfway up. It has 8 or 9 bolts plus anchors. The moves are fun, and it's the safest bolting on Mission Wall so far.
The second pitch is classic Clear Creek steep 11c jug hauling. Right now it ends on the grassy ledge where the two climbs to the left of Wild Child also end. There are no anchors on Wild Child's second pitch, so you either have to traverse left to top of other routes or lower off top bolt of this route.
I intend Wild Child to be three to four pitches in length when it's finished....
From Jan. 1, 2005: Wild Child is now four pitches in length. From the top of pitch two, climb out the overhanging crack-chimney (10a dirty), at the third bolt undercling left onto the slab (do not climb straight up, it's more chossy). Cruise easy rock for a while, then friction past two bolts to reach Surette Ledge and a chain anchor. Actually it is more comfortable to belay off bolts found at the back of the ledge, the anchor I placed is for the descent. Pitch three is 10b.
Walk 15 feet right on Surette Ledge to a two-bolt belay station. Pitch four is high quality and exposed 10d/11a. Start with a delicate undercling/layback past three bolts through a steep, quartzite headwall to a crack, note the old ring angle piton in the crack (do not clip this). A long reach right allows you to clip the next bolt. Hand traverse right and fire through steep face (crux). Continue up 5.9 to a two-bolt anchor at the top of Mission Wall.
You can walk off to the South or rap the route.
Wild Child and most climbs on the Mission Wall are more adventurous than your standard Clear Creek clip-ups. There are still loose sections, lichen, fractured rock, and broken ledges. Surette Ledge is full of talus, so be very careful. If you rap the route, you may encounter rope hang-ups on pitch three. If you are inexperienced with multi-pitch or alpine-like rock, this route is probably not for you. If you are a solid 5.11 leader who likes adventure, then Wild Child is a fun outing.
Eds. this was combined from 2 entries into 1 for ease of use.
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