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What do you use for ditch biners on a sport route?

Jared Moore · · Truckee, CA · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 130
M Sprague wrote: Your belayer lowers you down to the bolt below the one you fell on. Now clip a draw from your belay loop to that bolt. Your belayer then gives you enough slack that you can tie a figure 8 in the belayer's side of the rope coming down from the upper bolt. ....
Thank you. I understand now, and I think that is a great idea!
Ryan M Moore · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 35

If there have been tests done and it held up fine then maybe I'll throw it into my bag of tricks.

Marc, I wouldn't be falling from the the third bolt I would be lowered to below the second bolt, Which would remain clipped until I cleaned it this limiting my chance of decking until after I cleaned that bolt, at which point, depending on route I would only be about 15-20 feet up. Not a nice fall, but one I'd be comfortable risking on a solid bolt.

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346
M Sprague wrote:So, if you are going off a biner, you are either trusting one biner and bolt or leaving two biners (one for each of two bolts).
Not really. It's possible to bail off a bolt without losing redundency. Just take your GriGri, grab the belayer-side of the rope, thread the GriGri BACKWARDS, with the belayer as the "man" and you as the "hand.", and clip it to your belay loop. Now what you essentially did is create a lead rope solo setup. If the bolt pulls, you're going to whip on one of the lower bolts with your belayer acting as a counterbalance weight. You can also use a prusik, which is more simple to setup, although I would trust the GriGri more.

edit: never mind looks like someone already covered it.

As far as bail biners go, just buy some here on M Project. I was selling some for $3 each awhile back, and I often see them go for around that.
erik wellborn · · manitou springs · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 355

I use my partners biners.

BigFeet · · Texas · Joined May 2014 · Points: 385

If you have to bail just use what you have on you.

Does it matter, for you are bailing, correct?

Where are you going to get your new dedicated bail carabiner from?

Otherwise, take Aleks' advice.

Micah Klesick · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 3,971
M Sprague wrote:I don't. I stick clip through the part I can't dog through if necessary. Safer and you don't leave crap for other people to deal with. To get your stick, get lowered down enough so you can clip in direct to the second bolt down and clip off a knotted bight from the upper one (so you are into two bolts direct and the belayer can take you off), then lower a loop to retrieve the stick. Pull it up, belayer puts you back on belay. Unclip the bight and from direct into the bolt and aid your way through the hard section.
This
T Howes · · Bend, OR · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 20

I use a carabiner. You should too.

BBQ · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 554

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eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525

i don't bail, i downclimb. plus, the only place i ever sport climb, i know the route equip-er and i know that all the bolts get checked relatively frequently by myself, the route equip-er, and probably other people I don't know. so if i couldn't down climb, i'd be fine trusting 1 bolt with a biner taped shut

doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264
eli poss wrote:i don't bail, i downclimb. plus, the only place i ever sport climb, i know the route equip-er and i know that all the bolts get checked relatively frequently by myself, the route equip-er, and probably other people I don't know. so if i couldn't down climb, i'd be fine trusting 1 bolt with a biner taped shut
So you and the route equipper personally whip on every bolt on all the routes you climb?
Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,203

I use the ole sling trick, rap, and pull my sling. That way no one, but my partner knows I wimped out.

Joy likes trad · · Southern California · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 71
Marc801 wrote: I guess it bears repeating yet again. DO NOT USE QUICKLINKS FOR BAILING on a sport route. As someone pointed out, they're a pain in the ass for any subsequent party to deal with. They become a super PITA when they rust shut in a few weeks.
You can repeat yourself and make all the noise you want...I leave the cheapest thing I have on me behind. If that as a quick link then thats what I leave.
Dom Caron · · Welsford, New Brunswick Canada · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 1,370
Allen Sanderson wrote:I use the ole sling trick, rap, and pull my sling. That way no one, but my partner knows I wimped out.
Yep. The Texas Rope Trick. Aside from having a stronger partner, it is the cheapest way to bail.

See thread : mountainproject.com/v/getti…
Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
gription wrote: You can repeat yourself and make all the noise you want...I leave the cheapest thing I have on me behind. If that as a quick link then thats what I leave.
So your attitude to other climbers is basically "screw you!"?
Joy likes trad · · Southern California · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 71
Marc801 wrote: So your attitude to other climbers is basically "screw you!"?
Pretty much
Joy likes trad · · Southern California · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 71

So when I happen on a piece of booty...I don't feel screwed at all.

Joy likes trad · · Southern California · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 71
Jake Jones wrote:Who carries around quick links?
Me..one on my haul loop
Joy likes trad · · Southern California · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 71
Jake Jones wrote: Why?
Cheap and light
Jake Jones wrote: Specifically for bailing?
Yes
Jake Jones wrote: And why on your haul loop?
Out of the way.
Grumpy Gym Climber · · Sacramento · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 10

The difference in price between a new quicklink and a new "cheap" carabiner is about $2, heck you can even get a new locking biner for $5 if you look around. If you are not willing to spend $2-$3 more for the sake of others, perhaps you shouldn't be climbing. I mean most folks are going to spend more than that on a beer after climbing.

A few folks with such lack of consideration of others really ruins things for the rest of use. And besides, almost everyone climbs on public lands which are meant to be used by all. If you are climbing on your own property, do what you want, if not don't be a jerk.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

if one does use a quicklink ... please use a rated one and not a hardware store one ...

with some bolts hangers the next leader might not be able to clip directly to the hanger but may need to clip the link ,.. and if its a rusty hardware store made in china with no quality control one ... he may be taking a lead WHIPPAH on it

unless of course you simply dun give a shiet about other climbers

the other risk with quicklinks is that you must make sure they are tightened shut tightly (making it harder for the next person) and oriented to that the screw tightens DOWNWARD ... theres been an accident or two where the quicklink came undone when lowering and the climber decked

durty little fact ... quicklinks done have any rated open gate strength requirements ... and thats the "rated" ones never mind the hardware store ones ....



;)
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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