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Trip recommendation

Original Post
Dom Caron · · Welsford, New Brunswick Canada · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 1,370

Hey,
I have roughly 10-11 days for a trip in mid-september. Still in planning mode and I still haven't booked an airplane ticket and rented a car,etc.

Quick Background:
I climb 5.12+ sport, 5.11 trad.
I prefer lightly overhanging sport but don't mind other angles.
I prefer cragging.
I will be with my wife who climbs 5.10.

I'd like to go to an area where climbers converge at the end of the day. Basically an area where climbers all camp at the same spot and there is a communal fire, where people can exchange, socialize. This is actually an important part of the trip for me.
Maybe Something akin to Miguel's but on a much smaller scale.

So where should I go? I am thinking western US - maybe Maple Canyon and American Forks Maybe Smith Rock, maybe Squamish...

10 days may be too short for a trip in Europe.

So, any recommandations? Keep climate considerations in mind when responding.

jaredsmokescigars · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 65

Grand Ledge, MI - that sounds about your style.

Matt Levine · · Portsmouth, NH · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 110

Rumney is great in September.

Nathan Self · · Louisiana · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 90

Horseshoe Canyon Ranch sounds like your style.
At least a hundred 10/11 sport routes, lots of other climbers, onsite camping, etc.
I wouldn't stay for 10 days though.

Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,625

Fly into Bend, Or. Climb Smith and Trout Creek. If you use it up (HA!)on your rest day run down the Sierra east side to Bishop, Ca. Pine creek, Owens, Buttermilks, etc. And there is always that other west coast place, some valley or another? And if you have not done anything in Tuolumne?
10 days?

John Byrnes · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 392

Rifle, Colorado.

Andrew G · · Pittsburgh, PA · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 404

Smith Rock or the New River Gorge sound like they'd be perfect for what you're looking for.

David Gibbs · · Ottawa, ON · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2

Red River Gorge, and hang out at Miguel's.

Andrew Blease · · Bartlett, NH · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 470

The Obed in TN. I go there for all of the reasons you mentioned.

Dom Caron · · Welsford, New Brunswick Canada · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 1,370

Thanks for the recommendations.It seems like some of the area suggested would be hot in September, especially in the South, no?

Seth Derr · · harrisburg, pa · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 2,260

I've only been to Squamish once and it was semi off-season but my camping experience there was exactly what you're describing. Favorite place I ever camped. People from all over the world hanging out at two picnic tables in the middle of a lawn playing cards and talking shit. So fun.

Lohan · · Rome, GA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 345

Obed. It's starting to cool off in the south. May not be "sending temps" but it's far from scorching. Chase the shade!

Andrew Blease · · Bartlett, NH · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 470

September is perfect in the South! It's cool enough to climb most things, you can still chase shade in the middle of the day, and it's not to cold to go swimming in the afternoon.

Andrew G · · Pittsburgh, PA · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 404
Dom wrote:Thanks for the recommendations.It seems like some of the area suggested would be hot in September, especially in the South, no?
From my experience at the Red and New, it could be perfect weather that time of year, could still be a bit hot. Humidity should be down at least. The New is usually about 5 degrees cooler. I'd be reluctant to head any further south than that unless you don't need to decide in advance and can just check the weather before you go.
Nick Metzger · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 589
Andrew Blease wrote:The Obed in TN. I go there for all of the reasons you mentioned.
second this. Stay at Lilly Pad.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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