The best bolts on the market?

What are the best bolts out there? I am looking into bolting some routes and developing local climbing areas near San Diego,

Serg Tank wrote:What are the best bolts out there? I am looking into bolting some routes and developing local climbing areas near San Diego,

Well that's kind of a broad question. You could go with titanium glue-in bolts which would last basically forever. I would call that the best, but it's certainly unnecessary for inland areas.

If the rock is soft, stainless steel glue-in bolts are the best option, followed by the Powers 1/2" x 4.5" stainless steel bolt with a stainless hanger of your choice as a good runner up. If the rock is hard, a standard 3/8" stainless stud bolt with a stainless hanger of your choice is adequate. If you want the absolute strongest hangers around, the Fixe 4mm stainless hangers are it. If you really want the absolute best no matter what, glue-in 316 stainless steel bolts are a good choice.

Serg Tank wrote:Since I am inexperienced I think I will go with the Stainless glue-ins. Thanx a lot!

So, since you're inexperienced you're going to go with the most difficult type of bolt to place? Sounds like a good idea to me. I think that the point that Sayer is trying to make is that there isn't necessarily a "best bolt" (with the exception of titanium glue ins) but that the best bolt is dependent on the rock and the area that the bolt will be placed. If you could provide more information on what you will be bolting we could give you a better idea for what the best bolt for that area would be.

My bad. I will be bolting at the Mission Crags area. I believe it's limestone. Where is the best place to buy bolts at? I was thinking on the internet, but if you guys have any leads I am all ears!

Have you bolted routes before? If you haven't, maybe you should work with an experienced developer first.

Serg Tank wrote:My bad. I will be bolting at the Mission Crags area. I believe it's limestone. Where is the best place to buy bolts at? I was thinking on the internet, but if you guys have any leads I am all ears!

Are you talking Mission Gorge? If so, that would be granite, not limestone. I don't know of any limestone in the San Diego area, but I don't know the area that well so there may be some that I don't know about.

If it is granite and not right on the coast (like mission gorge) than any 3/8 or 1/2 stainless bolt will work just fine, but please find someone who has bolted before to learn how to do it so that you don't just mess up the rock with bad routes.

Serg, go with 1/2" SS 5 pc Powers "rawl" bolts and Fixe hangers. You can remove them easily and patch the holes if you find you didn't put them in the ideal spot and they are very good quality. I don't recommend stud bolts. You should only use glue ins if you are experienced. With all of them be methodical and meticulous in your craftsmanship and choosing where to put them (If possible, TR a few times to figure the best spots that are in good rock, can be clipped easily by shorter climbers, best protect the climber, keep the rope running well and don't interfere with the climbing by directing the draws or rope over holds or foot smears. Also have others check the placements too. Especially when starting, it is easy to get blinders on and only see your own beta or get excited about a crap squeezed in line) Really make sure the holes are clean: blow with bulb blower, brush, blow, brush and blow again.
Removing a glue in from a botched placement is really a PIA, requiring grinding and core drilling.

Hello Everyone, I know this thread is a few years old, but I am also curious about this. I plan on living in South India for most of 2016 and I hope to work with local climbers to develop some routes. I have not placed bolts before, but I am going crazy learning about it. Most of the local climbing areas are granite, so I think that 3/8" SS A304 bolts will work. The areas are not near the coast and are relatively dry throughout the year. Also, this is a self-funded project, so what would you recommend as the best compromise between cost and durability?

What about bolt length?

Also, any resources on bolting will be highly appreciated. Thanks MP community.

Being near the coast or not is only one factor, albeit the most important.

Average temperature is also a very important factor contributing to bolt corrosion. Cliffs that get sun can get quite hot and stay that way, and it seems South India is hot in general.

Seems to me that India has a significant monsoon season, so "relatively dry" is just that: relative. Besides, the rate of Stress Corrosion Cracking (SSC) is actually worst at about 30C and 30% RH, which is quite dry!

Are there any existing bolts to examine to see how they've fared? Other stainless, for any purpose, that's been exposed to the elements?

If you can afford it, use 316L stainless, 3/8 x 3" for both hangers and studs. 304 might be okay, hard to tell without more info.

Robert Bair wrote:Hello Everyone, I know this thread is a few years old, but I am also curious about this. I plan on living in South India for most of 2016 and I hope to work with local climbers to develop some routes. I have not placed bolts before, but I am going crazy learning about it. Most of the local climbing areas are granite, so I think that 3/8" SS A304 bolts will work. The areas are not near the coast and are relatively dry throughout the year. Also, this is a self-funded project, so what would you recommend as the best compromise between cost and durability? What about bolt length? Also, any resources on bolting will be highly appreciated. Thanks MP community.

Funny, this thread is two days old!

Here's a link to some bolting information for you:

safeclimbing.org/education.htm

climbtechgear.com/legacy-bolt/
Also good to have if you are using 1/2" drill- the removable bolt by Climbtech.

legacy bolt... its really the best option out there for expansion bolts

This REALLY feels trollish by the OP.

I hope it is a troll. There are numerous anchors that need replacing in the San Diego region. I'd be more than happy to donate a couple boxes of hardware in exchange for sitting in and helping with the work if there's an experienced local interested in sprucing up some routes. I also lack the Drill and associated tools.

There could be post drilling climb and brews in the equation too.

On a side note I feel like I've been blindly walking past it for the last couple years or there is a newly bolted sport route on the main wall at mission gorge right of the old leaper hangers on the ledge shared with Nutcracker and Gallwas. Does any one know about that route? Can't seem to find a listing for it.

John Byrnes and FrankPS, thanks for the information. I guess I got confused on the posting date.

John, thanks for the excellent points on heat. It looks like the yearly average temp is over 30C for the place I will be living in. I'll get in touch with local climbers there to see what type of SS is used for their existing routes.

I will also do a site visit in early October, so I might be able to personally see the condition of existing bolts. However, isn't SCC difficult to observe?

Robert Bair wrote: John, thanks for the excellent points on heat. It looks like the yearly average temp is over 30C for the place I will be living in. I'll get in touch with local climbers there to see what type of SS is used for their existing routes. I will also do a site visit in early October, so I might be able to personally see the condition of existing bolts. However, isn't SCC difficult to observe?

SCC can be hard to see, in the sense that often the cracks are hidden, but there are visual clues that can be quite conclusive. Check out the thread and photos at

mountainproject.com/v/are-b…

to see what I'm talking about.

So if you get in touch with the local climbers, get photos!