I am traveling to Banff within the next week and would love to do some climbs in the area. Currently in Squamish, thinking of leaving early since the rain is coming in. I just started leading trad and I don't have a rack, but I have the fever! I have a goal to climb Joy on Indefatigable(5.6 &10 pitches), but I would be down for whatever, I can follow 5.10a, lead 5.7
I am currently in Ontario but there are a lot of cool people in the valley. Check out the facebook group "Bow Valley Climbing Crew" or "Banff Belay Monkeys" or "TABVAR" which are all community facebook groups where people are often looking to partner up. If i were around i would have shown you around but duty calls!
Also be warned that Joy is incredibly loose and you must not be too scared of rubble falling on you and i wouldn't advise climbing under someone or a party. There is a lot of good stuff at your grade. Aftenroe is great and also has quite solid rock for the grade, or Mt. Cory (take it for granite area) or even Lake Louise or other quartzite crags.
I would also check the smoke forecast as when i was leaving there was quite a bit of disgusting smoke (no visibility)
There's also the Calgary Climbing Community on Facebook. Everything in the Rockies is loose, except Lake Louise, but there's not much at the 5.7 grade. I have not climbed Joy, but I have been told by several people, it is an easy route to get off route on, turning a 5.6 into a 5.10 very quickly. I do hear it is a stellar climb.
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