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Sept @ Smith Rock

Original Post
Jeffry Walker · · utah · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 105

I will be staying at Smith the first few weeks of September and will be looking for partners to climb with. I have climbed a couple times before at Smith but this will be my first longer stay there.

I am breaking into 5.8 Trad and have dabbled in sport (5.9?). I have followed 5.10a/b routes at Smith before.

If you are going to be in the area and are interested in climbing send a PM.
-Jeff

Doris Sanchez · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 10

I will be in the area and can climb full day on 9/5 and 9/6. Maybe even 1/2 day in morning on 9/7 then I need to head on. Let me know if that works by replying here or PM me.

I will have rope, gear, and will have my small dog. I would like to focus on sport anywhere from 5.8 to 5.12. Just want to have fun.

Doris

Jeffry Walker · · utah · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 105

Doris,
I don't see why that wouldn't work out. I will hit you up with a PM when I get to the area (~Sep 2-3)

-Jeff

Doris Sanchez · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 10

awesome, thank you for confirming. Will send you a PM with how to contact each other.

Nick · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 5

I'll be in Portland from September 3-8. I'm looking to get in two full days at Smith during my stay. I also need a partner. I have a rope and gear for sport. Leading up to low 10's but like to stay below 10. Let me know if you'll be around.

Jeffry Walker · · utah · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 105
nickybo wrote:I'll be in Portland from September 3-8. I'm looking to get in two full days at Smith during my stay. I also need a partner. I have a rope and gear for sport. Leading up to low 10's but like to stay below 10. Let me know if you'll be around.
nikybo - I was planning on driving out to Smith the morning of 03Sep and will be there well beyond your stay. I believe Doris and myself will be climbing the 5&6. From my perspective you are welcome to join. If you would rather climb on different days just let me know as I will definitely be around. I will have my entire kit with me (sport & trad).
Doris Sanchez · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 10

All,

I agree that you can join us. We were set to climb Sept 5 and 6 and I can even do a 1/2 day on the 7th.

Jeffrey, we should touch base end of August or so to confirm potential crags. But I am fine with staying low and on up through 10s, that will be fun and just what I need.

Looking forward to it.

Doris

Jeffry Walker · · utah · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 105

Doris/Nick,

Have either of you climbed at Smith before? Do either of you have any specific routes in mind you would like to do? Would you be ok with a couple trad routes being mixed in if possible?

Doris Sanchez · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 10

Hello Jeffrey,

I have not climbed at Smith Rock, but used to destination climbing. I think picking out areas that have a variety (both trad and sport options) is totally fine, that way you can pick out as many single pitch trad routes you want to climb, and not limit it to just a few. My goal on this trip is mileage on sport so I will be only leading sport routes on this trip, so as long as there are sufficient sport options for me to lead, I am great. I have trad trips planned this year, but since I am not proficient, I am going to Seneca, which is pretty classic trad :-), but keeping it local and I am going with local stone masters that have been taking the time to check behind me and critique what I do.

Thanks for checking on this and yes, as I look at areas, I will look for places that have a decent distribution of both types. If you guys can do the same, closer to end of August, we should list out our top 3 preferences on crags and try narrow down from there.

Sound good?

Excited!
Doris

Jeffry Walker · · utah · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 105

Doris,

That sounds good to me. With that said it's ideal to "chase the shade" at Smith which is pretty easy to do since the major areas are all really quick to go between. The exception to this is the Marsupials; if going there you would stay in that area all day.

Do you frequent Seneca? (that is my "home stomping grounds" for climbing)

(ignore the "closed" lettering in the image below)

smith area

Doris Sanchez · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 10

So so so sorry for the delay. I had guests down and we did local climbing. Sounds good I will also look at mixed crags to see options in the shade. I have not frequented Seneca since I am new to the MD area, but plan to. :-) Cannot wait to make it a regular place to climb. :-)

Doris Sanchez · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 10

Hello Nick and Jeffrey,

Time is getting closer so thought I would check in. My friend is lending me her guidebook so I will check more next week. But if it is not all in the sun, what are your thoughts on The Dihedrals? It has sport from moderate through various grades and some trad. Let me know.

I will be looking on MP over the next few days and looking for crags that have a mix of trad and sport routes.

Also I have a stick clip that I am bringing since I am climbing other areas on this trip in Washington, but it does not reach 15-20 feet for the high first bolts at Smith. Do you guys have a long long stick clip?

Thanks, doris

Chris Kisio · · Beaverton · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 5

Hello All,

Not to barge into the convo, but I would love to join this little group.
I have most of my own gear. Minus rope and quickdraws, but would be very interested in learning to climb with a rope. I have been doing a lot of bouldering at the gym and and few times outside. I am in Portland with a vehicle and plenty of time. Please let me know if you all would be comfortable with showing me the ropes. No pun. Thank you very kindly. Chris

PS: I have been to Smith Rock and also have a small insite on some things to do.

Jeffry Walker · · utah · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 105
ChrisKisio wrote:Hello All, Not to barge into the convo, but I would love to join this little group. I have most of my own gear. Minus rope and quickdraws, but would be very interested in learning to climb with a rope. I have been doing a lot of bouldering at the gym and and few times outside. I am in Portland with a vehicle and plenty of time. Please let me know if you all would be comfortable with showing me the ropes. No pun. Thank you very kindly. Chris PS: I have been to Smith Rock and also have a small insite on some things to do.
Chris,
Are you at all available after 07Sep? If so send me a PM and we can see about meeting up for some climbing.
-Jeff
Tom Sanders · · Beaverton, OR · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 30

I'm telling you Jeff! Voyage of the Cowdog!!!!!

Jeffry Walker · · utah · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 105

Tom it's definitely on the ToDo list.

Chris Kisio · · Beaverton · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 5

Hey Jeff, not sure if PM went through. Still interested in climbing after September 7? Let me know. Thank you

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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