Do you stick clip?

Economique (sp?) at Wheeler is well known. I knew to bring a cam before I climbed it. I think a 1 or 2 c4 works. A weird quirk of local 'ethics'. I don't establish routes, so I just climb what they put up and don't really complain.

Quotes to remember, RE: sport climbing:

Sport climbing is neither.

Sport climbing starts at 5.12.

;)

Its obvious my weak self is not a sport climber. And I'm okay with that.

Guy,

Do you think that Econmique is the worst protected route in climbing history or just poorly protected after the first move? I think it's fairly protected after the first clip. I don't see that adding a bolt is necessary however if someone added one (again), I wouldn't care.

The one benefit I see to that high first bolt is it seems to keep the crowds low on that route, and those who want to be safe can always stick clip.

JoeGaribay wrote:I guess I need to figure that one out then, Oakie. Not trying to be anyone I'm not. Feel free to explain my faults and correct my wording if you wish. I will continue to make mistakes. Hopefully not repeated ones.

"Bold" in climbing refers primarily to leads with poorly protected or unprotected cruxes, primarily first ascents, and usually test-pieces for their time. Things like the Bachar-Yerian. And, of course, the climbers that put them up.

Climbing a runout section below your ability isn't bold. Toproping is never bold. Trying hard on safe routes, either on lead or on toprope isn't boldness, it's just determination.

I solo occasionally, and have led X rated routes that were well below my ability. I try things at and above my ability frequently and fall a lot, especially on sport routes. I am not a bold climber.

Thank you^
That will be all. For MP just announced that I talk too much. I'll now have my popcorn and sit back and think about all that was said. I'm glad this sport has so much variety and opinions. Pretty unique compared to everything else I've done.

Even if you feel you're bold, there's probably not much to be gained by babbling on and on about it. Just gonna raise people's expectations..

Reminds me of a middle-aged guy who spent half an hour spouting about how "back in the day, the first bolt was 25 feet up and we never whined about it..now these kids expect a bolt every 6 feet..hmmmph.."

Then we went climbing and I was certain I was gonna witness a demonstration of old school badassery..

He spent the whole day toproping. At the end, I finagled a way to get him to lead a safely-bolted 5.6 and he was shaking and trembling all over it when he had just cruised a bunch of 9s on toprope.

Wow. Some of us must be bored today. Three pages in 5 hours on stick clips? Really?!? I thought sport climbing was neither? :<)

Rusty Finkelstein wrote:Is that...

yes.

doligo wrote: Do you even believe in that statement? Most bold routes were put by crusty old dudes when they were young, strong and stupid in proper climbing shoes (assuming it is anything harder than 5.10). Now they've grown up, they're all enjoying clipping bolts and they wouldn't tell you this, but they do own stick clips!

So, putting up a bold route is stupid. I assume climbing an established "bold" route is stupid too? Simply because something isn't for you doesn't automatically qualify it as stupid.

+1 Csproul!! I'M the one who gets to wear the cast on my leg when I snap MY ankle, not anyone else. So I'll stick clip whenever I want, regardless of the FA "style"or "form". I've spent 7 months in a leg cast (not climbing related) & that is REALLY bad form.