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Routes in Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (including Upper and Lower Alchemist)
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Bowling Alone S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cupcakes & Champagne S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Fun in the Sun S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Golden Boy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hills Have Flies, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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King Snake Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Labrador Ate the Cupcakes, The S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pilot’s Paradise S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Prestige, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Quiet Flight S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Tender Flakes of Mercy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Ugly Duckling S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Written Exam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | (likely) Mike Forkash & Gary Anderson, 1980. Bolts replaced by Fienup & Callery, 2014. |
| Page Views: | 892 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Matthew Fienup on Aug 25, 2015 |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
True old school adventure. There are just enough bolts to keep you off the ground (probably). There is just enough loose rock to make for genuine excitement. And the bolts are located near stances, NOT near crux moves.
Start on a boulder, 15 feet below the first bolt. Delicately climb over a detached flake to make it to the first clip. Five bolts of slab climbing lead to ledges and then to the rappel tree. The 5.9 crux of the route occurs well above the first bolt, just before reaching the second. If holds give way and you fall, you'll need an attentive belay to keep you off the ground. There is a second, poorly protected crux just below the fifth bolt. Generally, the rock quality is better if you follow a line to the right of the bolts.
Start on a boulder, 15 feet below the first bolt. Delicately climb over a detached flake to make it to the first clip. Five bolts of slab climbing lead to ledges and then to the rappel tree. The 5.9 crux of the route occurs well above the first bolt, just before reaching the second. If holds give way and you fall, you'll need an attentive belay to keep you off the ground. There is a second, poorly protected crux just below the fifth bolt. Generally, the rock quality is better if you follow a line to the right of the bolts.
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