x4s in place of aliens

Hey everyone,

I just did my first pitch of aid over the weekend and i enjoyed it. My goal is to climb Lurking Fear and Moonlight Buttress over the next couple years, with Lurking Fear being my main goal.

I currently own a double set of x4s from yellow (.2) to purple (.5), then a double set of C4s up to 4.

Reading through the gear recommendations on Supertopo, a double set of aliens from .33-1 are recommended, then double c4s above that size. Can anyone with decent experience in the aid world (maybe even on LF) let me know if my x4s are a good alternative to the aliens? I know im going to need to get some offset cams as well, so if i dont need to get aliens that would be wonderful.

Im sure Ill have many more aid questions in the not so distant future, so thanks for all the answers in advance.

You'll be fine. Alien heads are softer, bite the rock a little better, action on X4's is a little better (dual cams on the larger). Can't say about the new aliens. I climb on both, btw, and like both.
One thing i prefer on x4 over alien is the cam stop. The larger x4 and c4 (check this please) actually have passive ratings. I have mushroomed aliens, always scary to do that!
You def want offsets. I just sold my MC offsets and replaced w/X4, they rock.

Yes you can use X4's.
.33 Alien = .1 X4 *slightly larger min, same max
3/8 Alien = .2 X4 *slightly smaller min, larger max
1/2 Alien = .3 X4 *smaller min, same max
3/4 Alien = .4 X4 *same min, larger max
7/8 Alien = n/a = #3 orange Metolius Mastercam
1.0 Alien = .5 X4 *exactly the same sise

I know that I wasn't aid climbing, but I actually pulled out an alien on a whip yesterday and ended up falling 30feet because of it. I prefer x4's over aliens personally, but they are both good. The double axle technology on the x4s allows them to be placed passively which makes them much less likely to "Mushroom". The smaller ones however have a stacked axle technology which gives them a much larger range, but not the ability to be placed passively. I still would not recommend placing a cam passively, that's what nuts and hexes are for!

stacked axle x4s are not passive pieces
demandware.edgesuite.net/aa…

Matt N wrote:stacked axle x4s are not passive pieces demandware.edgesuite.net/aa…

thanks for the responses guys. i like my x4s too, just wasnt sure if there was some advantage to aliens when aiding that i didnt know about since im an aid noob.

Matt N wrote:stacked axle x4s are not passive pieces demandware.edgesuite.net/aa…

I only think about a passive cam placement as a last resort. Though I have yet for that to happen!

brandonemery wrote: I stand corrected! Good to know! I have never placed a cam passively anyway, I don't understand why you would take the chance when you could just as easily use a nut and take no risk with moving parts at all.

X4's are fine on MB and LF. You don't need offsets on either, as I recall, but I was free mostly.