Devil's Lake - advice for a first time visitor

Hey guys, I'm heading to Devil's Lake with a friend for a few days starting this weekend. We'll be looking to do some leads, toproping and probably some bouldering. I've done my research and have come up with a tick list and some tips. Any other advice (or your take on what I have so far) would be appreciated!

Classic safe leads:

Queens' Throne 5.4
Cleo's Needle SW Diheral or East Comfort Route 5.4
Foreplay 5.5
Lost Face (including Finger Crack & Overhangs I & II) 5.6-8
Brinton's Crack 5.6
Berkeley 5.6
Full Stop 5.6
Coatimundi Crack 5.6+
Push-Mi, Pull-Yu 5.6
The Great Crack 5.6
Pretzel 5.6
Charybdis 5.7+ (PG-13?)
Peter's Project 5.7
Wiessner Face 5.7
Breakfast of Champions 5.8+ (PG-13?)
Watermarks 5.8
Roger's Roof 5.8+
Curving Crack 5.8
Jolly Roger 5.8
Mung 5.9
Upper Diagonal 5.9
Sometimes Crack 5.10a

Classic TRs (or more serious leads):

D'Arcy's Wall 5.8
Last Gasp 5.8
Chicago 5.9
Congratulations 5.10a
The End 5.10a
Mouse's Misery 5.10a
Cheatah 5.10b
Gill's Crack 5.10c
Sometime Direct 5.10d
Happy Hunting Grounds 5.11a
Gill's Nose 5.11b
Callipigeanous Direct 5.11b
Son of Great Chimney 5.11a

General Tips:
-East Rampart will be crowded on weekends.
-Bring plenty of static line or webbing for toprope anchors, and do not cross hiking trails with them.
-Bug spray

Questions:
-Does any shop in town rent crash pads???

Thanks!
Michael

If you are going near Madison, you can rent a crash pad from the WCA (Wisconsin Climbers Assoc, the local access group).

Thanks, Doug. We'll be driving straight from Milwaukee, but I'll write their info down, anyway.

Also, wanted to add a link to another helpful thread that I just saw:

Intermediate Trad Route Recommendations for Devil's Lake

Michael G wrote:General Tips: -East Rampart will be crowded on weekends.

True. But even within what you listed, there are plenty of good climbs/areas on the West Bluff (that are all relatively close together) that can afford you at least some minor relief from the crowds. Misery Rocks, Porkchop Buttress, Cleo's Amphitheater, and Wiessner's Wall all have great climbs for TR and trad.

Heres my 2 cents. Based on having my first experience at the lake recently. Be prepared to top rope and spend a good while route finding. If you can top rope it, do so, at least the first time.. Unless it is impossible like cleos needle which is absolutely worth it. especially if it is your first needle. BUG SPRAY dont wimp out! get that $hi# with some deet in it!

The WCA pads are rented out of Focus Boardshop, which is on the east side and not too far out of your way. Call there and ask for Dobbe.

Start really easy if leading because even some of the "easy" routes can surprise you if you have never climbed on this rock. Not to mention the sandbagging at the lake :)

Also I don't see Birch Tree Crack mentioned, an amazing 5.8 classic if you're on east bluff.

If you already have a TR on Brinton's (BUT YOU SHOULD LEAD BRINTONS, JUST SAYING) then do Brinton's Direct (5.8 HARD).

If you're already at Foreplay then consider doing Orgasm (5.8) and Orgasm Direct (5.11b).

Oh and ummmmmmm, Michael's Project ;)

Otherwise your list is pretty good!

Also talking to people will definitely speed up your route finding!

Just remember that most of the ratings are old school trad and stiff even for that...if you lead 10s in a gym, don't jump on the nearest 8 as a warmup, lol. There are also a few heavily sandbagged lower grade routes, so be careful...I want to say that Coatimundi was one of 'em, but it's an amazing climb nonetheless.

quartzite is super slick so don't expect to be able to smear much, I like bringing my edging shoes for the lake (a TC Pro would be perfect since it's all vertical/Slab but I'm usually fine in my Miuras since it's all 1 pitch). The plus side is that the rock quality is usually excellent and the protection bomber...you'll actually find a lot of great hex placements most of the time, if you have them (especially for anchors).

Unless you're going on a weekday, I would avoid Misery rocks...almost always busy since there's a bunch of good easy climbs and the Boy Scouts often take over the place. Stettner's is a nice West Bluff alternative for super easy stuff/warmups, or the Frigate area is also good and usually a lot less crowded. Can Can is a great climb, and the Bone is nearby.

Edit: if you're on the East Bluff, don't forget about Bill's Crack! It's almost always taken, but if it's free, grab it...mega classic, plus I believe it's over 100 ft.

+1 To what Ted said.

Especially about good edging shoes and sandbagging!

To avoid starting yet ANOTHER thread of Devil's recommendations...

Do you guys have any recommendations for easy/moderate link-ups? I'm hitting the Gunks for Labor Day and looking to get on some of the smaller multi pitches there, so I'd like to do some practice at the lake. I also remember some of the longer East Bluff climbs getting to be a little ridiculous with the rope drag due to all of the ledges, so that might be a nice multi pitch option to break them up. Any thoughts?

I know many people do double overhang in 2 pitches. I did it in two pitches a couple weekends ago. It's alright but only like 30 foot pitches.

Also Ted: Turks Head Ridge

Lost Face (longest climb on West Bluff) can be done in two enjoyable pitches. Belay station is just right and up from the overhang. Great crack for anchors. Also one of my favorite faces, sporting many great climbs.

Jungle Gym on Major Mass. It's a really easy 5.4, and can be done via various starts and ways. Lots of fun and great practice for dialing in your multi pitch techniques. Belay changeovers, rope management, etc. Usually 3 pitches depending on how you do it.

Also, on the Weisner Wall, I can't remember the climb. It's like a 5.5 or something onto a slab and then around the corner onto a ledge. That's one pitch, then Weisner's face or crack or something like that for the second pitch. That's a good time also and another solid two pitches.

Yeah, I was planning on doing Weisner's, so that'll work great. Thanks for the ideas, guys! Heading there tomorrow.

I have a tangential question: I am planning a trip to DL in the next month and I want some anchor information. I know none of the climbs are bolted but are there bolted anchors anywhere. I have a small trad rack and worry that I'll be stretching myself thin just leading some longer climbs, not to mention building anchors. I have heard that there are some anchors and they're set super far back from the edge, how much webbing should I bring? I will be there with a few folks that don't lead, are there some areas where I can walk to the top and set up TR easily?

No bolted anchors other than rap anchors on spires without walk off. You can walk to the top of any climb and setup a top rope (excluding spires of course). I've only set top ropes with three pieces of gear and cordelette/webbing because I have yet to find a place where there is no gear for a top rope (though I know that there might be a couple places).

BUT, if you plan on slinging boulders and trees instead of using gear then bring A LOT of webbing. You might have to sling boulders/trees 10 feet or more away sometimes.

Agarciap wrote:I have a tangential question: I am planning a trip to DL in the next month and I want some anchor information. I know none of the climbs are bolted but are there bolted anchors anywhere. I have a small trad rack and worry that I'll be stretching myself thin just leading some longer climbs, not to mention building anchors. I have heard that there are some anchors and they're set super far back from the edge, how much webbing should I bring? I will be there with a few folks that don't lead, are there some areas where I can walk to the top and set up TR easily?

Do a little research about the lake. There are zero bolts top rope anchor bolts. I can count a handful of bolts and fixed pins around the lake (Cleos, Leaning tower, etc.), that's it. Natural anchors can be used and can be far from the edge. Please don't cross the trails with your anchors and ropes.

alpinejason wrote: Do a little research about the lake. There are zero bolts top rope anchor bolts. I can count a handful of bolts and fixed pins around the lake (Cleos, Leaning tower, etc.), that's it. Natural anchors can be used and can be far from the edge. Please don't cross the trails with your anchors and ropes.

I did research, and I was on MP confirming...want to make sure I bring what I need to the crag (and not a ton more). As for not crossing the trails with anchors, duh.

Agarciap wrote:As for not crossing the trails with anchors, duh.

You would be surprised how often this happens hahaha.

Agar, almost all of the climbs (except spires like Cleo's needle), can be accessed from the hiking trails. All of the bases of the climbs can be accessed by gulleys or earlier paths in the trail (can be harder to find if it's your first time). I would recommend setting up your anchor first, rapping down (or hiking the gully), then pulling the rope and leading it. If your gear is limited and/or you're a newer leader, I highly recommend the Queen's Throne in Cleo's Ampitheater. It's a super easy but fun climb and the protection is awesome...you can pretty much sink whatever you want/have into it, but the crack that runs along the route eats up bigger cams. You've also got the Needle nearby, which is a fun lead but mostly worth it for the top out. That route has one of the few bolted anchors (rap ring) at the lake, for obvious reasons.