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Tail Tied Devil
5.9- YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 16 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.3 from 9 votes
Type: | Trad, 20 ft (6 m) |
FA: | Rusty Ballie |
Page Views: | 1,323 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Sev Piper on Nov 30, 2012 · Updates |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
This short fingers to hand crack is fun, but short. The 8+ rating seems to be adequate, but is certainly not any harder and may deserve an 8.
Protection
Single set of cams to 3". There is NO ANCHOR, so in order to bring up a follower or TR you'll need a cordalette (2 for redundancy) to sling the top of the pinnacle and belay/lower safely. Once done on the route you can scramble to the top and clean your cord by connecting a long sling to the nearby anchor on "Gentle Persuasion" and stepping across. This is all a bit sketchy, and could be easily fixed by someone with a drill and knowledge of placing bolts.
4 Comments