Type: Trad, 20 ft (6 m)
FA: Rusty Ballie
Page Views: 1,323 total · 10/month
Shared By: Sev Piper on Nov 30, 2012 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


9 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

This short fingers to hand crack is fun, but short. The 8+ rating seems to be adequate, but is certainly not any harder and may deserve an 8.

Location Suggest change

Across the descent gully from the Guillotine Flake

Protection Suggest change

Single set of cams to 3".  There is NO ANCHOR, so in order to bring up a follower or TR you'll need a cordalette (2 for redundancy) to sling the top of the pinnacle and belay/lower safely.  Once done on the route you can scramble to the top and clean your cord by connecting a long sling to the nearby anchor on "Gentle Persuasion" and stepping across.  This is all a bit sketchy, and could be easily fixed by someone with a drill and knowledge of placing bolts.

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