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> B. Upper Tier
> B. First, Second, & T…
Three Little Bats
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.5 from 83 votes
Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | Josh Pollock and Preston Evans, April 2015 |
Page Views: | 3,412 total · 31/month |
Shared By: | Josh on May 23, 2015 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is a long route with very good face climbing up to and after the slanting roof. There is a traversing crux move (maybe the hardest on the route?) just below the roof and a reach to the jugs above the roof that is sometimes difficult to suss out. The upper face stays steep and offers a 5.9 spot or two of its own.
A longer draw is recommended for the bolt just before the roof (the last one on the face below) to minimize rope drag, but there may still be some on the upper face. A 60 meter rope might just make it to the ground, but you better knot your ends just in case. Note that the top anchors are a body length below the lip, so if you are rigging the climb from above, you will need to anchor off a juniper tree (long slings) to climb down to the bolt anchors.
A longer draw is recommended for the bolt just before the roof (the last one on the face below) to minimize rope drag, but there may still be some on the upper face. A 60 meter rope might just make it to the ground, but you better knot your ends just in case. Note that the top anchors are a body length below the lip, so if you are rigging the climb from above, you will need to anchor off a juniper tree (long slings) to climb down to the bolt anchors.
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