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Whitneys east buttress in one day?

Original Post
Jen R · · SoCal · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 5

I wanted to do this for my birthday but plan to late and all the overnight permits are gone. Appears you ONLY Need a permit to do this as an overnight but I could be mistaken as it's kind of confusing.

We are experienced climbers with recent elevation exposure and I'm an endurance athlete.

How ambitious would a one day attempt be?

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

It is an ambitious day, but if you are an experienced (alpine rock) climber and endurance athlete, it is definitely doable. People do it all the time.

It's been a long time since I looked at permits for the area and I just looked at the webpage again and it is a little confusing. But it looks to me like you now need a day use permit for any trip within the Whitney Zone, not just the JMT, as it used to be. I'd probably call the INF office to ask if you don't get a definitive answer here.

Eric Seidman · · Santa Barbara, CA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 15

Jennifer,

In addition to everything mentioned about about experience and condition you're in, it also helps to be familiar with the approach which can require some route finding in places.

As for the permits, you will need a Whitney Zone Day Permit which unfortunately is part of the lottery system. If you show up a day before, there's a good chance you can pick up a day permit (or if an overnight one).

EDIT: By "pick up a day permit", I mean pick up a cancelled/unused permit that was already reserved by another party. You'll still likely have to compete for these in a drawing with others, but you can see at previous years how many went unused online. 2013 Unused Whitney Permits 2014 Unused Whitney Permits

There are also 4 North Fork of Lone Pine Creek permits available for Walk-Ins the day before that get lotteried off as well. See more info about Walk-Ins here.

From the Inyo National Forest Website :

"If you want to climb the Mountaineers Route or other East Face climbing routes, use the trail name “North Fork of Lone Pine Creek” when reserving.
- Day use for these routes is in the lottery (day use permit is valid for all routes in the Whitney Zone)."



Good luck with your trip, I hope it works out for you!
Jen R · · SoCal · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 5

So if I had a permit for the regular hiking trail that would be fine? We have that! I just switched the trip

Has anyone done this in one day though?
Worth it or just go find something else

david doucette · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 25

yes people have done it in a day but it's ambitious. it'll take you about 6 hours to get to iceberg lake. then another 45 min to an hour to get to base of EB. so if you start from the portal at 6:00am you won't be to the base of EB until 1:00pm at the earliest. if you're fast you could do it in 3.5 hours BUT keep in mind you're not fresh as someone who started from iceberg lake. and you're starting the climb about 13,000 feet. add to that afternoon thunderstorms are possible and you won't see them until they are overhead. you can rappel into the mountaineers route if needs be.

mucci · · sf ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 655

Yes you can easily do this in a day.

3+ hours to the base if you are reasonably fit.

5+ on route

4 back down if you are tired, no rappels all 3rd/4th class on the way home.

Start at 3-4am.

6 hours to iceberg? Maybe if you take a nap.

Jen R · · SoCal · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 5

Ok so we either try for a walk up / next day permit or move the trip back to open days

Jen R · · SoCal · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 5

And thank you

david doucette · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 25

3+ hours to the base of EB? not a first timer, no way. a better than decent pace is gonna be 90 min to lower boyscout, 45 min to upper and 90 min to iceberg. then another 45 min to EB. that's 4.5 hours and most people aren't going to do 4.5 hours to base of EB. mortals would take about 5 hours to base of EB.

mucci · · sf ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 655
We are experienced climbers with recent elevation exposure and I'm an endurance athlete.

Sounds like he is above average to me.

Hell, even I did it C2C in 13 hours and change, you just can't dick around.
Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

Are you sure that you only need a permit for overnight in the North Fork? Why do I remember something to the contrary?

Anyways, if you're in good shape, it is definitely doable in a day. I've done the E. Face in a day, driving up from LA the night before. I disagree it will take you 6 hrs. to Iceberg. Maybe if you're carrying full packs, but not for a daypack. The main thing is to be sure you're in good shape and acclimate well (and find the trail). I've always found sleeping at the trailhead helps a TON with acclimation. The route is pretty mellow, especially if take the easier variation on the first pitch. Lots of information out there about the trail, so not finding the right way isn't as easy as it used to be. The actual trail starts on the right hand side of the drainage, and heads up a number of tight switchbacks before wandering around to reach Eberbasch Ledges, or however you spell it.

Jen R · · SoCal · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 5

That's shorter then my longest Multi pitch day Multi pitch day. I am too much a planner to take a chance driving up without a permit and trying to get one. I just booked the first available, mid-October. Later than we wanted but I sure thi later than we wanted but a sure thing. Time to take the hub on elevation hikes!

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Jennifer rau wrote:That's shorter then my longest Multi pitch day Multi pitch day. I am too much a planner to take a chance driving up without a permit and trying to get one. I just booked the first available, mid-October. Later than we wanted but I sure thi later than we wanted but a sure thing. Time to take the hub on elevation hikes!
Bring enough layers and gloves for a mid-October climb up Whitney! Brrr!
Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

I did it in October as well and it was really nice. YMMV.

Eric Seidman · · Santa Barbara, CA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 15
Jennifer rau wrote:That's shorter then my longest Multi pitch day Multi pitch day. I am too much a planner to take a chance driving up without a permit and trying to get one. I just booked the first available, mid-October. Later than we wanted but I sure thi later than we wanted but a sure thing. Time to take the hub on elevation hikes!
The Main Trail Day Permit is valid for the rest of the Whitney Zone (including the approach to the climbing routes via. North Fork of Lone Pine Creek)

FWIW, it took us 7 hours to approach to Iceberg last year w/ 50+lb packs, including getting off trail a few times. If you travel light, you can expect it to take much less time.

Getting a night at elevation will help as well if you can get it.
John Douglass · · Seattle, WA · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 60

Get a day permit and go for it. Having never been in the area before, last July my partner and I did the E Buttress in 13 hrs round trip from the campground at Whitney portal. Pack light and have fun.

Having said that, the whole time we were climbing I was looking over at the Fishhook Arête and Mithril Dihedral and kicking myself for not spending my limited time on one of those routes. But I guess there's something special about standing on the summit of Mt Whitney. Once.

ClimbandMine · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2001 · Points: 900

50 pound packs? Not exactly going alpine style, eh?

For reference, ah friend and I did east face (a little easier) car to car in 18 hours or so the first time we went through the N. Fork trail. I don't remember split times, but if I recall, we left the car at about 2 am and we started up the initial route somewhere around 6:30 or 7:00. An hour or two for a route-finding mistake on the face didn't make the day any shorter...

Jen R · · SoCal · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 5
Eric Seidman wrote: The Main Trail Day Permit is valid for the rest of the Whitney Zone (including the approach to the climbing routes via. North Fork of Lone Pine Creek) FWIW, it took us 7 hours to approach to Iceberg last year w/ 50+lb packs, including getting off trail a few times. If you travel light, you can expect it to take much less time. Getting a night at elevation will help as well if you can get it.
I have a main trail permit for September 24. Are you saying I can use this??
The permit I got today says entry on north fork, exit Whitney.
FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Jennifer rau wrote: I have a main trail permit for September 24. Are you saying I can use this?? The permit I got today says entry on north fork, exit Whitney.
For an accurate, official answer, ask the Forest Service. Give 'em a call.
Jen R · · SoCal · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 5
Fat Dad wrote:I did it in October as well and it was really nice. YMMV.
Kinda worried about the dates. Glad to hear.
Joe Crawford · · Truckee, CA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 105

It is a pretty big day, but totally reasonable if you're fit. You need a permit, but you don't need an overnight permit. The day use permits are unlimited and available for same day entry at the ranger station in lone pine. For a really killer day, start with the east ridge of russell. I've heard of more than a few people pulling off c2c link ups of the peewee and fishhook. Definitely not 6 hours to iceberg. That is crawling.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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